Rich Cini wrote:
> Well, I'm reviving my Datamaster. Last year, it worked fine (I at least
> could get into Basic). This year, I can't even get it to boot. I have no
> manuals for the darned thing, so I have no idea what the numbers on the screen
> during the POST mean. I have one reverse-highlighted number: "09" and I'm
> assuming that this is a hardware failure code.
As promised, I have hunted through my various IBM System/23 (Datamaster)
manuals, and found the meanings of the POD (Power-on Diagnostics) error
codes. Here is a summary:
FF}
00} CPU Failure (!)
01}
02 Failure of first ROS module (Read Only Storage module, i.e. ROM chip)
03 Reserved. If this is highlighted, panic.
04 Failure in bottom 16k of storage, or of storage controller
05 CRT (presumably actually monitor) or DMA failure
06} CRT interface
07}
08 Page registers
09-} ROS failure. There follows a little diagram to tell you which chip
19 } to replace. Yes, the diagram in the manual is made of text, too.
** TOP VIEW OF PLANAR SEEN FROM THE REAR **
_______________________________________________
| ====== ====== <-- NOT FOUND ON |
| | 10 | | 11 | <-- SOME EARLY |
| =3=40= =3=60= <-- MACHINES |
| |
| ====== ====== |
| | 19 | | 0D | |
| =7=60= =1=60= |
| *********************** |
| =PATCH= ====== * PHYSICAL LOCATION * |
| | 18 | | 0C | * OF ROS MODULES * |
| =7=40== =1=40= * FOR EACH ERROR CODE * |
| *********************** |
| ====== ====== |
| | 17 | | 0B | -KEY- |
| =6=60= =0=60= ====== |
| | XX | |
| ====== ====== =Y=ZZ= |
| | 16 | | 0A | XX=POD ERROR CODE |
| =6=40= =0=40= Y=ROS PAGE VALUE |
| ZZ=HIGH ORDER BYTE OF |
| ====== ====== FIRST ADDRESS IN |
| | 15 | | 09 | ROS MODULE. |
| =5=60= =0=20= |
| ---(CABLE)-------------- |
| ====== ====== | ====== | |
| | 14 | | 02 | | | 09 | CO-PLANAR | |
| =5=40= =0=00= | =0=20= BOARD. | |
| | (FOUND ON | |
| ====== | ====== SOME EARLY | |
| | 13 | | | 10 | MACHINES.) | |
| =4=60= | =3=40= | |
| | | |
| ====== | ====== | |
| | 12 | | | 11 | | |
| =4=40= | =3=60= | |
| ------------------------ |
-----------------------------------------------
1A-} ROS failure on feature card
26 }
27 ROS failure on 2nd printer card
28} ROS failure on feature card
29}
2A-} RAM failure. Table (which I shan't include) of how codes
30 } relate to different sizes of machine.
31 RAM page access failure
32 DMA page register failure
33 Interrupt controller failure
34 Timer interrupt failure
35 Keyboard error. If flashing, keyboard controller.
If not flashing, you pressed a key at the wrong moment :-)
36 Printer failure
37 Printer not switched on
38 Diskette attachment failure
39 24 volt rail not reading 24 volts
3A-} belong to add-ons not to the system. I didn't bring the
FE } relevant manual pages.
General rules for interpretation:
Flashing inverse video = fatal error.
Non-flashing inverse video = error. Press the Error-reset key and
let the machine finish booting. Then run the diagnostics dikette,
I suppose.
To summarise, it appears you have a dud ROM chip. I imagine the
solution is to copy a ROM chip from another Datamaster. If necessary, I
can arrange to copy mine, but I don't know off-hand what sort of chips
they are. I would also suggest that, unless you too are in England,
logistics of getting the chip to you might be hard...
Philip.
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><> Philip Belben <><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Das Feuer brennt, das Feuer nennt die Luft sein Schwesterelement -
und frisst sie doch (samt dem Ozon)! Das ist die Liebe, lieber Sohn.
Poem by Christian Morgenstern - Message by Philip.Belben(a)powertech.co.uk
Message text written by INTERNET:classiccmp@u.washington.edu
>The C=128 does not need any kind of bootfloppy, it will start up in C=128
mode. if you type GO64, it reverts to a C=64 kernal.<
You can also hold down the Commodore key (looks like "C=" in the lower
lefthand corner) while you turn it on, and it will come up in 64 mode.
> the 128 has RF output accessable from the RCA jack, a 5
pin DIN video connector that provides composite, or seperated video plus
sound.<
The 128 has an 8-pin DIN connector, as do the later 64s. A 5-pin cable
will work, but for the best possible separated composite picture, an 8-pin
cable will do better.
>also there is a RGB 9 pin DSUB connector so you can use ANY CGA
monitor for 80 col. for the 1702, you need a video cable(looks like you
have
this), and use the separated mode for sharper graphics.<
The 1702 is composite only. Later Commodore monitors, like the 1902, were
composite/RGB switchable. However, pin 7 of the 9-pin 128 video connector
puts out a monochrome composite signal, which (with your own hacked cable)
allows you to view the 128's 80-column signal (normally viewable only with
an RGB monitor) on a composite monitor like the 1702.
>Nope. unless you want to run CPM<
Or GEOS, which is kinda like Windows. Some of the more advanced Commodore
software (like the fax program) runs under GEOS.
>>The next question would be, is it worth trying to repair a C64's power
supply? I got two of them yesterday, both powersupplies are dead. It
looks like the 5V line is shorted to ground. <<
>if it is potted, NOPE. some are unpotted and can be fixed.<
The 64 power supply isn't going to do him much good on a 128; the power
supplies have different connectors, and the 64 supplies aren't as strong as
the 128 supplies. As to potted supplies, I have fixed one or two; some
have fuses up close to the top of the gunk, and it is possible to scrape
away enough of the gunk on each end to bypass the fuse if that is the
problem. But as to whether it is worth the effort, I'd agree-- usually it
isn't. I'm not sure what they pot it with, but starships could use it for
deflector shields!
Gil Parrish
107765.1161(a)compuserve.com
Message text written by Sam:
>I also finally found a C16 but it has a broken key in the upper row :(
These things apparently aren't too common in these parts as this is the
first one I've ever seen.<
If the unit powers up, you're ahead of the game. The video chip, called
the TED, is weak in those units, and probably 1 our of every two you'll
find has a bad TED chip. By the way, the same TED is in the Plus/4, so if
need by the chip can be swapped from unit to the other.
All those C16s with bad TED chips means there are more than a few
non-working units out there that could be a part donor for your keyboard.
If fact, if you can't search around and find, drop me a note and I'm sure I
can.
Gil Parrish
107765.1161(a)compuserve.com
Message from: Uncle Roger <sinasohn(a)crl.com>
>Also, if I'm not mistaken, the Commodore PET's used IEEE-488 for disk
drives, as well as lab stuff. I'm pretty sure I've got an IEEE-488
interface for the VIC-20 around somewhere. <
Yep. Commodore used it on the full PET/CBM line for disk drives, printers,
and whatever else you wanted to attach. That was one reason PETs were
fairly popular in labs in those days-- easy to plug in test equipment.
Gil Parrish
107765.1161(a)compuserve.com
Opps, My name is TJ Plajer, and recently reinstalled the mailer and forgot
to add a space for some reason..... <G>
I did follow your tips, and the drives are in a XT case and there are no
bezels for the drives. there is good air flow, just they seem to run this
hot. I never ran these drives before and have no idea how hot they should
be. as for power cycling, they get NONE. this system has been running for 2
months continous, without any powerdowns since they were installed, so for 2
months now, the thermal stability has (hopefully) stayed the same.
thanx
->X-Sender: cerebral(a)michianatoday.com
->Hello there, I run a fileserver that has 2 ST-225 20 meg drives, and 1
->420 meg IDE drive, this system runs 24/7, and has been running for 2 mo
->continuous now. My question is what is the life expectancy of these dri
->it is often said that the ST-225 series are not reliable, however they
->continue to run strong. also these things run so hot that you can fry a
First off why bother withg the st225s? They are slow (st251s are
faster!) and their reliability is at best ok. FYI: st225s live far
longer if they are cooled. If the fan isn't noisy it isn't moving enough
air past them, seriously! Also if they are in the smae box as all the
other hardware they raise the other components temperature lowering their
life. Heat is not your friend, this is why computer rooms are air
conditioned an usuialy under 70 degrees F.
Allison
->I have seen many gems from DEC, mostly mid-1970s PDP-11s and early VAXe
->I have yet to see any 12, 18, or 36 bit stuff from them, however. The o
there is a reason... PDP-8s were the most prolific and the production
nubers were in teh low tens of thousands and many still serve. The 18bit
stuff were few to start with and hard as hell to expand so they faded
away. the 36bit stuff were also few but interesting. Still many made it
to the bone yard for lack of takers years back. Some of the less common
machines like the PDP/LINK-12s and PDP-15s were only made in the
thousands.
PDP-11/23s are however like flies but, one complete with software (or
better diags) and clean are scarce.
Allison
At 02:11 PM 7/13/97 -0800, you wrote:
>My main question is on the C= 128, along with all the other stuff I picked
>up, I got a Commodore 1702 monitor, and a couple 1541 drives. I've got the
>drive attached, and the monitor hooked up via a RF cable (I guess that's
>what it's called) through the front connection (This works for the Amiga
>500 I also got yesterday). Anyway, I power the thing on, it "buzzes" the
>drive like it's expecting to find something, and I don't get anything on
>the display.
The C=128 does not need any kind of bootfloppy, it will start up in C=128
mode. if you type GO64, it reverts to a C=64 kernal. and if you want to run
CPM, then you need a CPM boot disk, however it is not required to run the
machine. this is what I liked about the 128, 3 mahcines in 1! :)
for your monitor, the 128 has RF output accessable from the RCA jack, a 5
pin DIN video connector that provides composite, or seperated video plus
sound. also there is a RGB 9 pin DSUB connector so you can use ANY CGA
monitor for 80 col. for the 1702, you need a video cable(looks like you have
this), and use the separated mode for sharper graphics. the buzzing you hear
is because you have connected the video out RCA jack to the audio in. You
should have 5 phono plugs on the end of the video cable, and a din plug on
the other. just experament with all the plugs till it works. the video plug
colors usually (but not always)
YELLOW - sound
RED Video chroma
WHITE video Luminace
BLACK SOUND
GRAY Composite video
each manufacturer used different color chemes, and this might be wrong for
other cables than mine.
also the 1702 has a front panel switch that has 3 positions:
1- monochrome this just makes everything green used for composite video
2- Composite video this is just the standard video in, you can hook your VCR
to it for a nice sharp TV!!
3- seperated - this uses seperate lines to feed the video, and this has the
best quality
>I remember that the C64's like the VIC-20 would drop you at the prompt even
>if you had nothing attached, and didn't need any kind of boot floppies. Do
>I need some kind of boot disk for this beast?
Nope. unless you want to run CPM
>I gather a CGA monitor will work, so I guess I should dig out one of the
>old Mono-CGA monitors I've got in storage.
shore will.
>
>The next question would be, is it worth trying to repair a C64's power
>supply? I got two of them yesterday, both powersupplies are dead. It
>looks like the 5V line is shorted to ground. I did get a copy of the Old &
if it is potted, NOPE. some are unpotted and can be fixed.
>New style users manuals, and a copy of "Troubleshooting and Repairing your
>Commodore 64" yesterday (I love Powells Technical Books!) so I've got some
>documentation. It's been too many years since I worked as an Electrician,
>so my skill level is pretty low (wasn't very high to begin with, which is
>why I switched to computers).
>
I have these manuals too and I must say that it leaves no tern left unstoned.
> From: "Zane H. Healy" <healyzh(a)ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Some Commie questions
> My main question is on the C= 128, along with all the other stuff I picked
> up, I got a Commodore 1702 monitor
(good composite/Split Composite monitor, ususally JVC or Toshiba Guts)
> and a couple 1541 drives. I've got the
> drive attached, and the monitor hooked up via a RF cable (I guess that's
> what it's called)
>through the front connection (This works for the Amiga 500 I also got yesterday).
The jack on the front is RF output.
> Anyway, I power the thing on, it "buzzes" the drive like it's expecting to find something,
> and I don't get anything on the display.
When a 128 boots up it will attempt to 'boot' whatever disk is in the
drive. A boot disk isn't necessary unless you want to use the CP/M mode
of the 128.
To boot the 128 into 64 mode hold down the Commodore ket as you turn it
on, release and you will be rewarded with a 64 bluescreen. Otherwise it
will boot into 128 mode, either 40 or 80 columns depending how you have
the 'columns' key locked.
> I remember that the C64's like the VIC-20 would drop you at the prompt even
> if you had nothing attached, and didn't need any kind of boot floppies. Do
> I need some kind of boot disk for this beast?
Only for CP/M.. It's a good version too!
> I gather a CGA monitor will work, so I guess I should dig out one of the
> old Mono-CGA monitors I've got in storage.
Only in 80 column mode, the 128 has an RGBI port for that. If you have
no color RGBI monitors you can always fasion a composite monochome cable
by connecting to pin 7 (monochrome) and pin 1 or 2 (ground) to an RCA
plug, that pin was designed for monochome composite output.
The best (low cost) configuration is to have the 128 hooked up to the
1702, with the 40 column split/composite & audio plugged into the back
and the monochrome 80 columns in the front. The quality of video using
a proper (split composite) video cable in the back of the 1702 is
excellent, I highly recommend it!
> The next question would be, is it worth trying to repair a C64's power
> supply?
No. Unless you like chipping away Epoxy resin.
> I got two of them yesterday, both powersupplies are dead. It
> looks like the 5V line is shorted to ground. I did get a copy of the Old &
> New style users manuals, and a copy of "Troubleshooting and Repairing your
> Commodore 64" yesterday (I love Powells Technical Books!) so I've got some
> documentation. It's been too many years since I worked as an Electrician,
> so my skill level is pretty low (wasn't very high to begin with, which is
> why I switched to computers).
> Then there is the Amiga 500. About a month ago, I'd picked up a copy of
> "Bards Tale" for the Amiga, so I know it works. Problem is I don't have a
> copy of the two floppies that came with the computer originally (also got
> the manual for this at Powells). I think I've got the Kickstart 1.2 ROMs
> (it has a 1.2 on the screen when asking for the Workbench disk).
That is Kickstart 1.2 allright. Kickstart 1.3 or later would be better
because they have hard drive autoboot coding and 2.0+ is more compatible
with recent Amiga software.
I have the 1.2 Workbench and Extras Disk around here somewhere... :)
> Where can
> I get the disks? I don't suppose it's like the Apple IIgs software that
> you can now download.
The hard part would be getting it on the right format of floppy...
> The second Amiga question would be, is it possible to hook up Apple IIgs,
> or Macintosh 3 1/2" external floppy drive with a Amiga? I somehow doubt
> it, but...
Yes and no... Yes, there are plans for hooking up Macintosh 3.5" floppy
drives to the Amiga, BUT, they are used only for the Macintosh Emulators
for the Amiga (BTW the Amiga 500 can run a Mac Plus Emulator at just
about speed.)
> Thanks,
> Zane
>| Zane H. Healy | UNIX Systems Adminstrator |
>| healyzh(a)ix.netcom.com (primary) | Linux Enthusiast |
>| healyzh(a)holonet.net (alternate) | Mac Programmer |
>--
Recap, I have the Amiga Disks and also have a split-composite cable to
hook the 128 to the 1701 (for the best 40 column output).
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At 09:35 PM 7/12/97 +0000, you wrote:
>>
>Yes, I was experimenting with lots of hds/models/brands which I got
>some experience with them. If you have any questions about hds,
>floppy drives, fire yours to me. :)
>
>Jason D.
>
Hello there, I run a fileserver that has 2 ST-225 20 meg drives, and 1 NEC
420 meg IDE drive, this system runs 24/7, and has been running for 2 months
continuous now. My question is what is the life expectancy of these drives,
it is often said that the ST-225 series are not reliable, however they
continue to run strong. also these things run so hot that you can fry an egg
on it! :)
