>Yes I am sure my M3 keyboard is like that. So is my Model 4 keyboard.
>They're both made by Alps.
>
>_BUT_ when I ordered a new keyswitch for my Model 3 some 10 years or so
>ago, Tandy National Parts needed to know that I wanted an Alps keyswitch.
>They implied that there were others. I'd forgotten about that until you
>reminded me.
>
>
Mine's an Alps, too, unless it's just an older model.
--
-Jason Willgruber
(roblwill(a)usaor.net)
ICQ#: 1730318
<http://members.tripod.com/general_1>
>So, what do I do? Is it conceivable to open and remove the inner
>media from the warped sleeves?
Absolutely. With 5.25" floppies, it's not even necessary to put
them back into a sleeve before reading. With 8" floppies, which
can be substantially more floppy and harder to seat in the drive
without a sleeve, just put them in a nice known-clean sleeve.
8" DS drives will also likely get confused if you stick a naked
floppy in them, so best to find a nice clean sleeve.
> Any ideas or practical
>experience with this would be greatly appreciated.
Certainly, a common cause for "floppy won't rotate" is "the Pepsi
sydrome". A good rinse of the media in warm water will help
remove whatever soda/orange juice/kool-aid is causing the
problem.
--
Tim Shoppa Email: shoppa(a)trailing-edge.com
Trailing Edge Technology WWW: http://www.trailing-edge.com/
7328 Bradley Blvd Voice: 301-767-5917
Bethesda, MD, USA 20817 Fax: 301-767-5927
While I was at the regular weekly UW (Wisconsin) Friday surplus sale
yesterday picking up an Intergraph Clipper system for my collection (
working 8-) ), I noticed a DecSystem 5400 with 2 RA90 disk drives and a
TK70 tape drive is available out there for $20, including a short rack.
The system looks very very clean, physically. I have no room for it.
It is not a MicroVAX, but is instead a RISC system, presumably using a MIPS
RISC processor.
The folks over there told me they are having a big sale December 29th, so
if you want it, you should probably grab it no later than that. They are
open every Friday AM from 8AM to 2PM, IIRC.
They also have an old ACC System 370 channel interface Ethernet controller,
for you mainframe collectors. 8-)
Jay
---
Jay R. Jaeger The Computer Collection
Jay.Jaeger(a)msn.fullfeed.com visit http://www.msn.fullfeed.com/~cube
>
>If you want to try to repair a keyswitch, then try the following.
>
>You can unclip the 2 parts of the housing at the sides. The top part
>lifts off, releasing (in order) the plunger, a spring and a little rubber
>dome. The contact is the black (graphite-loaded) rubber pad inside the
>dome and the 2 metal contacts in the bottom part of the switch. Clean the
>metal contacts with a cotton bud and isopropyl alcohol (propan-2-ol). You
>can try rubbing the rubber pad on very fine (1000 grit or finer)
>wet-n-dry paper.
>
>Put the switch together. Measure the resistance between the pins when
>it's pressed down. You should use 2 pins diagonally oposite each other
>for this test. A good switch is about 50-100 Ohms. A useable one is
><300Ohms. More than that, and it probably won't work. If you have all the
>switches out, put the worse ones on the numeric pad as above.
>
>If you still have a defective switch, then try rubbing a soft pencil (I
>use a 6B) on the rubber pad inside. That got my worst swtich useable
>again. There is a special kit for this from Chemtronics which recoats the
>rubber contacts, but it's not cheap ($30). It could be worth using if you
>can't get the switch working any other way.
>
Sure that's a model III keyboard? The keyboard on my Mod. III has actual
metal contacts in the switch that are pushed together by a tab when the key
is pressed.
>Putting it all back together is the reverse of dismantling it. Take great
>care when putting the Model 3 case back together - it's possible to break
>the CRT neck on the logic cage. And while it's possible to replace the
>CRT, new ones are not that easy to get.
>
The CRT was blown out in mine when I got it. Replaced it with one from an
old RCA 12" B/W TV. Works fine. Where I live, the local thrift store
usually have at least 2 or 3 B/W TV's at a time. I picked up the one I used
for $2.50.
--
-Jason Willgruber
(roblwill(a)usaor.net)
ICQ#: 1730318
<http://members.tripod.com/general_1>
Uncle Roger <sinasohn(a)ricochet.net> wrote:
>A bit of trivia... I was in Denver on holiday a while back, and went to
>the Colorado History Museum (Denver has great museums!) There, amidst a
>lot of other Colorado stuff, was a Digital Group computer. Very Cool, but
>I'm sure there are still drool stains in the carpet around it. 8^)
Another bit..... It wasn't until after my business trip to Sydney,
Australia that I find out they have a computer museum. I found out
>from the guy who is involved with a like museum in Perth. What do
you suppose they use for a drool control system?
Mike
Can anyone help this guy out? Please respond directly to him.
ttfn
srw
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 23:12:09 -0500
From: LABOMBARD(a)PSFC.MIT.EDU
To: SCOTT(a)SASKATOON.COM
Cc: LABOMBARD(a)PSFC.MIT.EDU
Subject: Looking for TRS-80 Model III Parts/Advice
Dear Scott,
I found your web site and thought you might
have some advice on how I could keep an antique computer
operational.
Believe it or not, my Dad has a TRS80 Model III that he
still uses! I programmed it back in the 80s to compute and plot out
(using a home-made "polar" plotter) mechanical cam profiles for
old automatic screw machines. Now my Dad is retired but he still
dabbles as a consultant in setting up old screw machinery and running
the TRS80 Model III to generate cam profiles.
The software package on the TRS80 is extremely large and
customized (with basic and Z80 instructions "poking "and "peeking"
here there and everywhere) so we never felt it was worth the effort
of converting it to a newer machine. Also, the "polar plotter" works
fine and to generate the equivalent output on a modern printer would
be easy for the hardware but a nightmare for converting the software.
Rather, I have just kept the hardware operational to run the dedicated
programs.
This strategy has worked well for a very long time. But now
there is a serious problem - the keyboard is getting worn out to the
point where some of the keys refuse to work! So this brings me to ask
you a question: Do you know where I could find another TRS80 Model III
as a parts computer or a keyboard PC board for the same? I might be
able to unsolder and fix/replace the keys themselves on the PC board
but then again this action may lead to irreversible damage.
I would appreciate any comments on this.
Thanks,
Brian
___________________________________________
Brian LaBombard LABOMBARD(a)PSFC.MIT.EDU
MIT Plasma Science and Fusion Center
175 Albany St
Cambridge, MA 02139
(617) 253-6942 TEL
(617) 253-0627 FAX
my little hx20 is doing strange things, perhaps someone can help.
when i power up i get two beeps, then the lcd shows:
ctrl/@ initialize
1 monitor
2 pcn
3 ok
and choices 4-6 show nonsense characters. choosing any choice drops me to a
register dump and the word TRAP! hitting the menu key gives me the initial
bootup choices listed above. i noticed there was two access doors underneath
which i opened all push down all all the socketed chips but no improvement. i
hit the reset b utton and that does nothing. at least the printer paper feed
works! any ideas? should i disconnect the expansion unit?
david
Doug Yowza <yowza(a)yowza.com> wrote:
> I've always wanted to know which machines have only a single instance
> represented on this list.
Anybody have an HP250-30, IBM 9370, Tektronix 31 (kinda like the 9825)?
Also, I haven't heard of anyone in our own group on the list mentioning
they have a DG Nova 1200.
These are four are in my collection.
Regards, Chris
-- --
Christian Fandt, Electronic/Electrical Historian
Jamestown, NY USA cfandt(a)netsync.net
Member of Antique Wireless Association
URL: http://www.ggw.org/freenet/a/awa/
>Ha! I recognize those. They're spare boards out of HP's 264x terminals.
Speaking of these terminals, I have a 2649a that is just old enough to buy
a Penthouse, sans keyboard/documentation. The cards are really pretty, as
Hans said, and unfortunately full of gold (which means they're probably
usually melted rather than just junked).
I'd like to be able to use this with my HP 3000/37 system, but need a
little help locating a keyboard and setting it up. I'll try on the HP300-L
mailing list too, but any info/pointers, as always, would be much
appreciated.
Aaron
< ok, so its not a classic computer but there was a discussion a while bac
< about ocilloscopes and i happened upon a model 503 at a thift store for
< is it worth getting? presumably it works but i have no idea how one woul
< it, much less use it.
Old... maybe a bit high priced.
If it gets a trace then it's likely ok. You can test the V-amp if there
is trace by touching the input and seeing if you can get a rough(from
noise) sine wave.
Allison
