A system I have always wanted (spent much of my career working on) has
finally been acquired.
A Prime (Pr1me) model 2250 aka "rabbit". The cpu chassis is in the
foreground. I do have the bezels (they were removed for shipping). In the
background you can see the rebadged cipher F880 in the same type of rack
that will sit next to it.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/131070638 at N02/25084207344
I'm told it has two 158mb priams, an ics1, and either 1mb or 2mb ram. Will
post more pics when I get around to opening it up.
Best,
J
I just found this download site. It includes drivers, games, etc., and many
programs and drivers for Win NT and up, Linux, and Mac. No spyware or
crapware, just good files.
Maybe not old compared to a lot of posts here, but there are drivers for
many very old cards for very old Win systems.
http://www.oldergeeks.com/downloads/index.php
Cindy
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Would someone please point me towards a tutorial of some sort on running
the assembler on TOPS20 as presented in Mark Crispin's Panda distribution?
--
David Griffith
dave at 661.org
A: Because it fouls the order in which people normally read text.
Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
A: Top-posting.
Q: What is the most annoying thing in e-mail?
*_Relese Notes 8/e (A and B)
Drilling
_*1. The keylock hole has been pre drilled to make sure the art work
lines up
1.1 This hole has not been beveled inside as the method of doing it has
only just been devised and missed the panel run.
However the fix is not difficult. A fine grit conical grinding
wheel does the job with no damage to the panel.
2. The switch spindle hole has not been predrilled due to the following
issue:
2.1 DEC did an ECO to replace the selector switch.
Instead of six positions starting at 12 o'clock and steps
of 36deg
anticlockwise going to 6 o'clock. (A type panel) They
used a switch that started at 15deg
anti clockwise from top centre (12 o'clock) and that goes
in 30deg steps finishing 15deg short
of bottom centre (6 o'clock ).
Now the hole position no longer lies on the vertical line
between top centre and bottom centre.
Its offset to the right due to the crossing position having
moved due to the change of angle.
They then did something strange. They redrew the top and
bottom lines between the 15deg position
and what would have been the circle crossing point of the
original descending vertical line. That made it worse. In the end they
just drilled the hole very oversize and hid the line under the skirt of
the knob.
I only have a key and lamp board for an A type panel so I
can't tell if when they changed to the new
switch they moved it to the right to take care of the
change of angle.
So for B type I chose to draw the lines at the correct
angles.
A switch spindle located at the intersection of the lines
would then move through the correct angles
You can now drill the hole to suit your spindle position
Rod Smallwood
Hi Guys
A shipment of PDP-8/e (A and B) panels went out to-day.
Tracking numbers will be sent to customers on Monday
Next up 8/f and 8/m.
New orders for PDP-8/e (A and B) , 8/f and 8/m will be accepted when
we have free stock.
Rod Smallwood
Hasselblad did not use tessar. tesar was a good lens but certainly
not the hi end
ed#
In a message dated 3/10/2016 8:01:07 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
mgariboldi at gmail.com writes:
2016-03-10 16:59 GMT+01:00 Zane Healy <healyzh at aracnet.com>:
>
> > On Mar 9, 2016, at 11:37 PM, Paul Anderson <useddec at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Popular or Modern Photography 20 or 30 years ago had an article on the
10
> > best lens ever made. I think Zeiss made 3 of them, and they were the
only
> > company with more than one.
>
> One of my all time favorite lenses is the Hasselblad 80mm f/2.8 Planar C
> lens made by Zeiss. Even their low-end Tessar lenses are awesome.
>
Anything made for Hasselblad could hardly be called 'low-end'. (A bit like
a 'low-end' SGI, there was basically never such a thing... certainly not in
terms of original cost.)
The only truly low-end Carl Zeiss optics are probably the *Pentacon*
series, made by the post-WW II Carl Zeiss Jena branch of the GDR.
Take a look at the Sony a7 series of bodies, people are using RTS lenses on
> them. You can put almost anything on them, and they?re a full frame
> sensor. I know that the wider lenses might have some fringing issues at
> the edges.
Which (affordable) lens *doesn't* have imperfect edges, especially
completely analog lenses without any in-camera digital correction. (This
can also be done afterwards, if one knows the possible distortion values.)
The Sony a7-series aren't exactly cheap. More affordable and rather good,
too, are ?4/3 cameras, especially in conjunction with a focal reducer, if
the crop is too much of an obstruction. I gain an extra stop of light, on
top of reducing the crop, with my M42/Praktica thread mount lenses. My
thorium-coated Asahi Pentax Super-Takumar 1.4/50's maximum diaphragm is
effectively widened to an impressive ?/1. On top of that I have in-body
image stabilization, good high ISO handling and other features, all at the
fraction of the cost. On top of that, I can exchange my lenses with my
dedicated ?4/3 Super 16 digital film camera.
> I?ve started looking seriously at the a7 series, as it would allow me to
> use a lot of lenses I have, that I can currently only use on 35mm film
> bodies.
>
Nothing prevents you from using a full frame lens on a smaller (e.g. APS-C)
sensor body. The crop isn't always a negative, sometimes it can change a
mediocre tele-photo prime into an excellent one.
> Since I started shooting more than just Nikon, it?s a lot harder to find
> Nikon lenses I really like. The only AF lens I really like is the Nikkor
> 50mm f/1.4G, at f/5.6 it can compete with my 50mm Summicron.
>
At ?/5.6 only? Well, that's rough...
- MG
I saved one hassie from my photo era before the computer business and
after USAF I was a commercial photog. I used ELM's for fashon work
and had a couple of cms and a SWC wideangle fixed lens one.... I
kept one c w/ 80m mm and a 150 mm and a few backs .... things
used to be worth a lot but not so anymore... I may take my c over
to the university to add to our SMECC museums tools of the journalist
display we have there... Better used there than sitting in my desk drawer
at the office...I have a kodak/nikon AP early digital camera I need to
take over there too.
Pretty funny the reason I got a computer in '79 which led to me
getting into the computer biz was to keep a database of photos and
transparencies I had for stock photo use. The lure of getting back into
electronics and the new era of affordable small computers lured me in !
Ed# _www.smecc.org_ (http://www.smecc.org)
In a message dated 3/11/2016 12:07:46 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
healyzh at aracnet.com writes:
> On Mar 10, 2016, at 10:05 PM, COURYHOUSE at aol.com wrote:
>
> I wonder if the tele tessar was a true tessar design or just a
use
> of 'the name' ? I have seen snipits in google referring to it being a
true
> telephoto... with a true tessar formula lens IS NOT.
I think it?s based on the Tessar, but is something different from what?s
in the Hasselblad manual. The cross-section is definitely different.
There are apparently at least two Tele-Tessar designs, with different numbers
of elements.
> ok the norm for the hassleblad was a80 mm f 2.8 planar...
>
> in the rolliflex the tessar was the entry level lens... the planar
the
> upgrade.
>
> my first 'real' camera was a 1933 rolliflex with a f3.5 tessar.
not
> bad at all but a little soft wide open.
> I still have this camera. and the low shutter speeds are a little
> slow but OTW rest is fine..
> In HD I bought an argus c3 from my geometry teacher for $8
and
> used it a lot more shots per roll and would operate eye level
and
> had a pretty good split image rangefinder.. the lens was decent
too.
>
> when I went in USAF sold the C# to my brother but kept the
> rolliflex ( wish I had saved both! as the argus shot some of my
first
> press work) adn when in USAF got a SLR.
I?ve not been able to justify the cost of a Planar Rolleiflex, though I?d
really love one with a nice f/2.8 Planar lens. Both of mine have the 75mm
f/3.5 Tessar. The older of my two is from 1936, the newer from about
1958. For me the Rollei is more of a small lightweight travel camera, or
shooting for fun, than a serious camera. Sort of a ?getting back to my roots?
sort of thing, as I started with a Yashica 44LM TLR.
What I really need to do is spend the money and get my Hasselblad?s 80mm
f/2.8 Planar C CLA?d, as the shutter on it isn?t accurate (or fast) at any
speed. :-( It?s my "serious work" Medium Format camera.
Zane
Dear all,
I have two VAXen that I'd like to resurrect simply for the sake of playing
around with The Real Thing[tm] running VMS. Note that I'm completely new
to VMS and DEC hardware -- hence the interest!
Box #1 is a VAX4000 model 400 with no working CPU (KA-675) and 2x 32Mb
RAM, an RF72 (wiped), plus a KZQSA QBUS controller. PSU is good, fans
squeal on startup but run silently once spun up. Have VMS installation
media in CD.
I have two KA-675s for this beast: Board #1 (originally installed) has a
failed B-cache (console reports SUBTEST_35_12, DE_B_Cache_diag_mode.LIS)
and crashes with an asynchronous write memory failure when booting VMS
from CD. Board #2 (DOA from eBay but fully refunded) has a dead DSSI bus 0
controller and crashes on SHOW DEV; I assume that's a write-off. Any
chance of identifying the flaky B-cache SRAM on board #1 and replacing it?
Alternatively, anyone out there have a KA-675 for sale?
Box #2 is a VAXstation 3200 with TK50, and an RD54. PSU and fans ok (and
very quiet), ditto CPU. The RD54 is unformatted; I understand this can
only be formatted in the field with a VS2000 or with some obscure field
diagnostics. There's no SCSI controller, so I can't install from CD. I
haven't been able to track down VMS installation media on TK50, and I
doubt they'd still be readable anyway. On top of that I have no idea what
condition the drive is in, as I have no blank tapes to test with. I've
found tape images online but see no way to dump these to TK50 (assuming
the drive is ok), unless I get a TZ30.
What are my options and chances of success for getting either of these
boxes up and running with VMS? A KA-675 and TZ30 can be obtained from
resellers, but I hesitate to invest several hundred in something this old
purely for the occasional mucking about. I have also considered selling
the units (or parts thereof) if nothing gives.
Any ideas much appreciated,
--GT
--
"END OF LINE" [MCP, 1982]
"... nowhere in the standards is it specified that 'programs that use a
lot of memory may randomly crash at any time for no apparent reason'"
[Stackoverflow forum, 2012]
""The cameras (they were huge) and the darkend rooms they worked
in no longer exist.""
These cameras you speak of were wonderful.... I rode a Robetson for
part of a summer making halftones and line shots for a print shop in AZ
here. In my off time I was allowed to shoot all the old docs and old
Eastman Kodak camera catalogs I wanted to and print them up as
posters! The lens was a Goerz Red Dot Artar and the sharpest flat field lens
I had ever used!!
Back to computer panels.... Rod thanks for doing the work to create
these!
ed# _www.smecc.org_ (http://www.smecc.org)
In a message dated 3/2/2016 3:32:48 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
rodsmallwood52 at btinternet.com writes:
Hi Guys
Having got 8/e (A & B) plus 8/f and 8/m into
production its time I made a few comments.
The aim has always been to reproduce the original panels using the
process DEC used all those years ago.
Needless to say we had to go through the learning curve with only
photographs, scans and one 8/m original
panel to go on.
In the interests of origiality I have kept what we used call 'features'
as found in the documentation and the sample we had.
I'm trying to reproduce the original, not produce an improved or fixed
version.
The only process deviations I have allowed myself are as follows:
1. The original versions would have been drawn twice full size by
hand on matt paper in indian ink.
One sheet per colo(u)r would have been requred. They would
then have used a process camera
to reduce to one to one positive masters on clear acetate film.
The cameras (they were huge) and the darkend rooms they worked
in no longer exist.
I used to do just that in the early '70's but whats weird is
where I worked is less than 50 yards
>from the silk screen studio doing the work now.
Now I use Inkscape and its layers to do the same thing. The
screeners have an Epson printer
the size of a piano to print my layers in black onto clear
film. After that the process is the same as it was.
They take a fine meshed cloth streched onto a frame. Its
coated (by hand) with a photo sensitive
emulsion, when dry it gets exposed through the master using
a UV light source.
The the parts proteced by black on the master are water
soluable and get washed out and hence
let the ink through. So one screen per layer is required
2. DEC would have printed the images first and routed or milled the
holes using some kind jig later.
As long as the hole stayed inside the white line that was
deemed to be OK.
We drill (laser cut) first and screen afterwards.
Regards
Rod