I don't know their history as regards computing before the 1980s but
Motorola seems to have had a brief flirtation with data processing in
the form of their MDR-1000 mark-sense and punched-card reader, a
brochure for which I scanned tonight:
http://chiclassiccomp.org/docs/index.php?dir=%2Fcomputing/Motorola
The original had been damaged by mildew and staining, which I tried to
clean up a bit without sacrificing the graphics on the covers, but the
inside fared much better. If you're like me, you'll enjoy some juicy
shots of telco datacomm equipment, too.
I know HP made a similar desktop device but I don't believe this is a
rebadge of any other company's product. Or is it?
As always, feel free to add to your collections, etc.
-j
I have just acquired an Olivetti M24. I want to inspect the PSU and I have
removed it from the machine. But I am struggling to remove the only
seemingly removable panel. This is the one with the mains socket and the
on/off switch on it. It looks as if it might be hinged at the bottom, but it
won't pivot out or come away. Does anyone know how to get inside this PSU?
Thanks
Rob
I received my reproduction 8/e panel from Rod Smallwood (aka "panelman")
this week. It looks spectacular compared to the peeling paint on the
original. Rod did not drill the hole for the rotary switch because the
position varies a little depending on the revision of the switch panel. I
put the original panel on top of the new one, marked the rotary switch
location, drilled a pilot hole and successively larger holes. I had to
adjust the position of the AC power switch a little to optimize the
clearance around the switches, but that was easy.
The original panel had rubber bumpers between the panel and the front of
the chassis that I will attach to the new panel with double sided adhesive
tape. The original panel had a tapered relief at the back of the hole for
the AC power switch, but the new one does not. I will use a file or Dremel
tool to remove some of the panel material. Without the relief the panel
will get stressed near the AC switch.
Overall, the workmanship on the panel is spectacular. Now I need to repaint
the 8/e front panel frame, RX01, RK05, and TU56 so they look as nice as the
new front panel.
--
Michael Thompson
I'm selling this interesting off-shoot of IMSAI history. It's a Fulcrum
Data Systems IMSAI 8080 clone in turnkey configuration. Fulcrum was
started by Bruce Wright of WW Component Supply, who competed with
Tom Fischer to buy remaining inventory at the IMSAI bankruptcy sale in the
early 1980s. Fulcrum was eventually sued and had to cease and desist but
not before a few of these systems were sold.
Photos and more information are located here:
http://vintagetech.com/sales/S-100/Fulcrum/
It powers up but I haven't tested the logic. The bus power is fused and
I don't have the fuse caps right now. I can probably round some up with a
little scrounging. Otherwise I tested all the voltages coming off of the
power supply and they are good.
I'm asking $1,200 for the complete system (CPU + dual drive unit) but I'm
willing to entertain offers.
Please inquire directly via private e-mail. You might also want to check
out the other stuff I have for sale by starting here:
http://vintagetech.com/sales/
Thanks!
--
Sellam Abraham VintageTech
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintagetech.com
Whatsoever a man soweth, that shall he also reap. The truth is always simple.
* * * NOTICE * * *
Due to the insecure nature of the medium over which this message has
been transmitted, no statement made in this writing may be considered
reliable for any purpose either express or implied. The contents of
this message are appropriate for entertainment and/or informational
purposes only. The right of the people to be secure in their papers
against unreasonable searches and seizures shall not be violated.
I'm trying to troubleshoot a TI silent 743/745. When you press the "rubout" key should it print anything like an underscore? Besides sending the rubout character, what does the actual print head do? Backup? Print an underscore?
Thanks,
Corey
corey cohen
u??o? ???o?
Mobile: +1 917 747 1408<tel:+1%20917%20747%201408>
I just acquired one of the guys w/o a display
Looking for the spec's of the display connector.
I have what I believe to be the pinout but nothing on timing, scan rates,
levels etc.
Other identification on the thing is
"1 MB Board internal set as 1st Card"
Upgraded to 9836CU
NO BATT / DOES NOT START / BOOT ?
Model ID tag 9836C / 2210A01010
-pete
> From: Josh Dersch
> I have no excuse, I just get nervous working on these things.
I should hope you do get nervous! Anytime one is working around equipment that
contains lethal voltages, one _should_ be nervous! It helps with...
> I suppose eventually I'll get used to it.
Don't get too used to it, one wants to always be aware and cautious!
(I myself am missing half a nail - and I'm lucky that's all that's missing -
because I got too "used to" working with my table saw...)
Noel
Andrew Grove, co-founder of INTEL, passed away.Truly a giant of our
industry. He made possible, or promoted, the brains and memory chips
that drive our machines, old and new.
I had a Poly 8813, and just found that I still have the System 88 User's
Manual, including the Macro 88 manual, schematics, and 16K RAM
manual/schematics.
I also have some disks that came with the system, though their status is
unknown. I believe many of them were just blank, but there is some system
software and a general ledger program disk.
Anyone want these? The manuals seem to be readily available online already.
--
Ben Sinclair
ben at bensinclair.com
A friend mentioned that there was a thread about the card guides in an 8a
or 8e chassis but I was unable to locate it so I am posting this as a new
thread as it has more relevance than just specifically those card guides.
Nylon is hygroscopic. Hygroscopic means it has the ability to absorbs
water. As nylon ages it drys out. When nylon dries out it shrinks and it
becomes brittle. If a nylon part has not yet cracked or been damaged by UV
it can be restored to almost like new simply by boiling it in water for 15
to 20 minutes. Boiling will force water back into the material and it will
expand and soften.
Do not use a pan with a ceramic type of non stick coating. I almost ruined
a 10" skillet because it imparted a flavor to the coating which then
transferred to the food cooked in the skillet. I don't know what effect
microwaves would have on the Nylon matrix so I suggest you just use
something like a Corning Ware ceramic glass pan on your range.
I was able to restore almost all the unbroken card guides on my 8a. A
couple of them had taken on a permanent bend due to excessive shrinkage.
Some had broken pins. A few of the pieces expanded too much and you could
plug them into the chassis but they bowed away from the edge because they
had lengthened beyond original length. Waiting a few weeks allowed them to
dry out a little and shrink and restored them to original size.
Unfortunately there are no adhesives that will adhere to nylon long term so
it is not possible to repair broken nylon parts in a usable manner. Nylon
while cheap and easy to injection mold was probably not the best choice for
card guides. But then who would ever have expected these machines to still
be coveted 40 years after manufacture.
--
Doug Ingraham
PDP-8 SN 1175