I was digging through the internet and found a post where a 3803 was posted for sale, would there happen to still be one available?Preferably a model 2
Thanks,gcnielson at yahoo.com
I just started working on a Data General NOVA 2/10 which is in quite
reasonable cosmetic condition, but has a number of problems.
The system comes with 8 kwords plus 16 kwords of core boards and a
"Cassette I/O" board and the CPU board.
After reforming the "man sized" caps and verified the power rails I took a
leap of faith and plugged in the CPU and the 16 kword core board. I managed
to deposit a few bit patterns and read back mostly what I deposited. After
a few power cycles I could no longer deposit values and read back what I
deposited. I also noticed that a 30 Ohm resistor rated at 3W which
previously got quite warm now stayed cold. That PCB area around that
resistor has cooked in the past and has changed colour - not dramatic, but
it obviously got quite hot in the past.
Unfortunately I didn't find a good schematic specifically for the Nova
2/10. There is one for the Nova 2/4 up on Bitsavers, but it is hard to read
and does not cover the NOVA 2/10 which is not quite the same as the NOVA
2/4. For example the power supply is completely different.
Until now I have been spoiled with quite decent DEC PDP-8/e documentation
and would be surprised if Data General did not provide a similar level and
quality of documentation. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place.
Thanks
Tom Hunter
I have an Interpro 2020 and a couple of HUGE 19" inch Intergraph
monitors. Frankly they are pretty lousy (fuzzy, not all that
luminescent), heavy and awkward.
Free to a Good Home - cables included. But I won't ship them, though
one could pay someone to crate them up and ship them.
I really don't want them around, and so I just converted my Interpro
2020 to use LCD flatpanels with a DB5w5 to VGA cable.
You can read more about my new cable setup for this machine, and see one
of the old monitors, at:
https://www.computercollection.net/index.php/unix-workstations/#interpro2020
JRJ
Can anyone identify this IC?
https://imgur.com/a/CU7Cn8z
This is from an Omega VLF receiver. I don't see many custom parts within
this unit, but perhaps this is one?
Thanks,
Kyle
Hi,
If you're interested, contact me directly.
It was in my apartment for years, I had to move it to the garage, and I
don't like the idea of leaving it there for the winter.
It's a PDP11/40 in a DEC rack. It was in working condition when I got it,
only the memory card had a problem (1 capacitor has been ripped off), but
reading/writing from/to the registers was working.
No need to say that you have to arrange shipping !
Thanks,
--
St?phane
Hi all,
you're invited to the Update computer club[0] public lecture series
"Updateringar"[1]!
When: 2021-09-11, 19:00 CEST
Where: https://bbb.cryptoparty.se/b/upd-0mo-m2u-aq8
The evolution of TECO and EMACS ? hands-on demo
The Emacs text editor has long been an important tool among programmers,
and has a long and rich history. I will talk about the development of
the TECO and Emacs line of editors throughout history. The emphasis is
on practical demonstration of programs found through software
archaeology. True to form, the bulk of the presentation will be
broadcast using ancient technology.
Lars Brinkhoff (ICtech)
The lecture is free and open to everyone.
Upcoming: 2021-10-09, 19:00: Update Computer Club: History and
not-so-certain future. Pontus Pihlgren (Update)
Don't want to miss upcoming events? Subscribe to our low-traffic
announcement list by sending a mail with the body "subscribe announce"
to majordomo at update.uu.se!
Hope to see you there,
Anke
[0] https://www.update.uu.se/index_eng.html
[1] https://www.update.uu.se/wiki/doku.php/projekt:updateringar
Hi folks,
I'm testing a little BlueSCSI adapter (BlueSCSI <https://scsi.blue/>) which
while being aimed at 68K Macs should also work as an 8 bit target for older
VAXen, it's a newer cheaper SCSI2SD solution and I should point out it
works as intended on a Mac Plus so the module itself is fine.
Nobody appears to have tested on small VAXen yet so tonight I dug out my
VLC to give it a go.
Powering up with nothing attached apart from an MMJ/H8571 cable I get
nothing on the console, I'm using PuTTY via a genuine COM1 port on a PC
which is one level above what I used last time I powered the machine up
(FTDI USB adapter to a laptop). Diagnostic LEDs cycle through the tests and
end up at '1111 0011' which according to the manual is 'entering the
console program'.
Clearly the DALLAS has passed the TOY tests, but if it's not happy would
that stop the console displaying? It doesn't matter how I set S3, next step
I guess is to hook it up to a 'proper' VT.
Cheers,
--
Adrian Graham
Owner of Binary Dinosaurs, the UK's biggest private home computer
collection?
t: @binarydinosaurs f: facebook.com/binarydinosaurs
w: www.binarydinosaurs.co.uk
Another query. The foam filter that sits in the front of my 11/24 CPU is
clearly badly degraded and needs to be replaced. What do people replace this
kind of stuff with? I guess it mustn't be too fine, this mesh seems quite
coarse.
https://rjarratt.files.wordpress.com/2021/09/1124-front-panel-2.jpg
Thanks
Rob
I have a PDP 11/24 which I hope to power up soon. The last time it had power
I noticed a bit of a burning smell which I failed to track down. However, I
did notice one capacitor on a memory board has a strange appearance, almost
as if there is some corrosion under the surface, it doesn't seem to be
bulging though, except along the top, but if it is bulging it is very bumpy.
I have a picture of it here:
https://rjarratt.files.wordpress.com/2021/09/wp_20210904_10_15_28_rich.jpg.
It is marked 47uF 30V, but it is also marked 20v as can be seen in the
picture.
I lifted it to measure its capacitance and ESR. It measures about 80uF and
the ESR seems OK. I am unsure whether to replace it, and if so what voltage
rating should I replace it with? I don't understand if this is a 30V rated
capacitor or 20V. It seems that Unibus has some 20V signals, so I guess 20V
might be right? I don't think 30V or 20V parts exist though, so I would need
to get 35V or 25V. Maybe the voltage rating isn't too critical?
Any advice?
Thanks
Rob