test-drb July 2015

test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org

176 participants
257 discussions

FS: Misc Computer Items.. 3 Intel Machines with OpenStep 4.2- Make an offer on Anything you are interested in

by slandon110＠gmail.com

Im just trying to clear out some excess stuff to make room for the SxS Telephone switch im getting. Everything listed below just make an offer on. Ill more than likely accept it :) I just want this stuff to go to someone who will use it. Plus i need space in my basement as an SxS Telephone switch is huge. IBM AT Clone. 640KB RAM 40MB MFM Hard Drive. Ethernet Card, set up with mTCP. 1.44 3.5 HD Drive and 5.25 HD Drive. Has ATI VGA/EGA Card as well Make A Fair Offer Toshiba Satellite 4010 CDS 32MB RAM 2GB HDD.. Has 3.5 drive, CD-ROM and Ethernet Card. Make a Fair offer Dell Dimension M233a. 32MB RAM 8GB HDD. Ethernet. This is running OpenStep 4.2 with fully supported video, networking and sound. 233Mhz Pentium MMX Processor. It runs it really nicely. Hp Pavilion 6630 500mhz Celeron 64MB RAM 10GB HDD. Runs OpenStep 4.2 with Networking and video fully supported. Dell Dimension XPS T450. Pentium 3 450mhz 128MB RAM 10GB HDD, ATI Rage 8MB Graphics, SB Awe32 Sound, 3C905 networking. And A USB Card.. All Fully Supported in OpenStep 4.2. This is a beast of an OpenStep 4.2 and with the 8mb graphics card, It does 1280x1024 at 32 bit color on any LCD you throw at it. It Looks great. Microsoft Systems and Development CD-ROM Circa 1994 Windows For Workgroups 3.11 Disk Set Windows NT For PowerPC, Intel, MIPS 6000, Alpha MS-DOS 6.22 Disk Set IBM Cartridge Basic for PCJr Windows 95 Original Release on CD-ROM and Floppies with Book and Key Code Thanks. eBay feedback upon request and I accept PayPal. Or if you are in Michigan and want to come pick it up you are more than welcome to come. I am in Central Michigan, North of Mount Pleasant Thanks Steve

9 years

SGI Indy available for collection in Sao Paolo, Brasil

by classiccmp＠crash.com

I think we've got a few active list members in Brasil, and somebody's got a nicely configured SGI Indy available for collection in Sao Paolo. > it has irix 6.2 installed (maybe) and (may still have) Maya and > Photoshop 1 with licenses. and medias for irix only. two hdds inside. > maxed ram. external cd rom. camera. 24 bit graphics card. (i may be > able to find the 8bit card). all cables (scsi, monitor, ...) > > if anyone want it, must pick it up in sao paulo soon. [...] oh and > everything is very, very clean. Original post is at: http://forums.nekochan.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=16729781 Please check the original post for contact details - I have nothing to do with this except for the re-posting. Hope somebody manages to rescue the beast, --S.

9 years

A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica

by jnc＠mercury.lcs.mit.edu

> From: Pete Turnbull > z = about 0.5mm - you're trying to measure the taper on the edge of > the flange? Not easy to be accurate. Ah, I've just realized I made a mistake in a previous message. I thought 'z' was calling for the distance between the inner edge of what I'm calling 'the flange' (i.e. the edge the left-hand arrow of 'x' is pointing to), and the upright at the right end of what I'll call the 'bottom plate' (when the piece is mounted on the H960, the bottom plate is in a plane parallel to the ground - i.e. it's in a plane perpendicular to what I'm calling 'the flange'). That upright is the vertical (in this picture) axis at one end of 'z'. Having called up a flat plate, and a square, to help measure accurately, the width of the flange ('x') is 1.26 cm, and the distance from the outer edge of the flange to the vertical at one end of 'z' (i.e. the end of the 'bottom plate') is 1.57 cm at the 'bottom' of the plate (i.e. in this image), making the distance from the inner edge of the flange to the vertical edge of the bottom plate 3.1 mm - at the 'bottom' of the bottom plate. At the _top_ of the bottom plate (i.e. the inner edge, when the unit is mounted on an H960), the distance to the outer edge of the flange is 1.62cm, making the 'flange inner edge' to 'bottom plate side' distance 3.6 mm, at the 'top' of the bottom plate. So 'z', the variance between the two, is indeed 0.5 mm. Pete's spot on! Noel

9 years

OT: Pentium processor sizes

by COURYHOUSE＠aol.com

a 486 jump to p5~ impressive!! now to find one.... Collecting microprocessors is fun, and I am,trying to figure a way display the entire array in one large glass panel over it. Perhaps use a half of a sliding glass door as a cover over the display rack.frame. Any other ideas>> Ed # _www.smecc.org_ (http://www.smecc.org) In a message dated 7/10/2015 9:56:24 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, scaron at umich.edu writes: There absolutely was a P5 Overdrive from Intel for 486 motherboards ... I saw a few of them in the wild back in the day...

9 years

80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale

by COURYHOUSE＠aol.com

good for searching... but if you want sharp images... get them on paper! In a message dated 7/10/2015 9:52:40 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, rdawson16 at hotmail.com writes: Most of the Byte magazines are here: http://www.americanradiohistory.com/Byte_Magazine.htm > Subject: Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale > To: cctalk at classiccmp.org > From: jws at jwsss.com > Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2015 21:33:39 -0700 > > > > On 7/10/2015 7:45 PM, Brent Hilpert wrote: > > On 2015-Jul-10, at 5:39 PM, jwsmobile wrote: > >> <snip> > >> Gizmo > >> http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760158/1.jpg > > That's the rear of a 70s colour TV, the stuff on the side looks like either/both convergence control or an early electronic tuning system with individual channel tuning. > > > > Actually, it looks like a Heathkit with the plug-in modules along the rear chassis, the manuals on top look like the right colour with the little title window cut in the cover of Heathkit manuals. > > > > Here we go, compare: > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/34737609 at N07/sets/72157613423708701 > > > > I think the estate one is an earlier model, probably early 70s, with the flickr-pics one probably a couple years later. > The thing that made me ask was that the grey thing was possibly a 1/4 or > larger motor, and maybe it was some oddly skinned disk drive. Now I see it. > > My cousin built one of those and had the best workshop TV in full color > till his wife made him put it in a box in the living room. Great fun > with the controls that pulled out after that, but not near as fun as a > 25" or so color tv on your bench. > > thanks for the info. > > I will try to get there tomorrow, may call you, Brendan and let you > distribute the Bytes. I'm looking for a particular ad in the 70s thru > 80's magazines and if I find it that would be all I want to keep. > > thanks > Jim =

9 years

A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica

by jnc＠mercury.lcs.mit.edu

PS: To clarify (if needed) what I mean by 'the flange': orient the piece as it would be if it were on the H960 (i.e. with the little interior tabs at the top, and the coloured panel on the front); the 'flange' runs down one side, along the bottom, and up the other side: it's a continuous piece, towards the back of the unit, in a plane parallel to the plane of the coloured front panel. HTH. Noel

9 years

A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica

by jnc＠mercury.lcs.mit.edu

> From: Steven Malikoff > I'm not sure I interpret Pete's measurement of 33.1mm from the back of > the flange to the front of the box, correctly. Noel also says the same > 'from the back of the flange' so I must be missing something here. Hmm. I thought for a moment I'd misread my calipers, but I checked again, and 3.80 is correct for the thing I measured, which is (on your IMG_3161) from the lower end of i/j to the upper edge of d/g. So clearly we must be using different definitions of 'flange', or something - or maybe his unit is somewhat different from mine? Here are the rest of the measurements from that image: 'k' = 'm' on mine, at 1.15 cm. That downward projecting flat (at one end of 'l' and 'm', which is at 90 degrees to the thing I'm calling the 'flange', the thing with thickness 'i', which is completely horizontal - along two axes - in that image) is cut back a bit, in the direction normal to the screen, from the end of the upper part (at the left edge of 'k'), which is why they look, from the slight angle in that image, like they aren't in a common vertical plane (normal to the screen) - but they are. 'l' = 2.6mm; 'h' is 10.64 cm; 'd' is 5.73 cm; 'i' is 2.70 mm. 'g' looks to be about 4.6 mm; I should mention that the corner below it (at the upper end of 'i') is not a right-angle, but a rounded thing with a fairly considerable radius - something on the order of 3.5 mm. 'j' is 3.35 cm. The edge labelled 'flush with bottom edge' is indeed flush with the left-hand end of the horizontal flange. On IMG_3162, 'q' is 1.16 cm; note that the left edge of 'q' is almost, but not quite, in a plane with the right hand edge of 's'. The left edge of 'q' is about 3.4 mm to the left of the right edge of 's'. 'u' is 1.13 cm. (This turns out to be 'z' in the third image.) Note that the little tab (the thing you're measuring 's' on) projects up under the 'plate' which you're measuring 'u' on; i.e. the maximum width of that tab, 't', is up underneath that plate. I can't measure it because it's not a sharp angle where it meets the vertical surface (i.e. in the plane normal to the screen) up under there; rather, it's a radiused corner (which you can see in the next picture). On IMG_3144, 'y' is about 1.56 cm (bit hard to measure that one; I should have used a flat to give me good end point at the RHS to measure to); 'x' is 1.25 cm; 'v' is 9.1 mm (ditto); 'w' is 2.85 mm. 'a' I can't really give you directly, but I can give you the distance from the upper end of a, to the upper end of 'w', which is 7.96 cm; add that to 'w' and 'v' and that will give you 'a'. Noel

9 years

Schematics/Service Manual for Yamaha C1

by ethan＠757.org

I'm just going to toss a feeler out there. One of my more recent most sought after machines was the Yamaha C1, a 286-12mhz MS-DOS "laptop" with 11 midi ports. I picked one up off of ebay, not cheap in it's non-working condition. I'm now working on getting it running. I'm looking for schematics or service manual. It's a long shot :-) I contacted Yamaha of USA already and they said they don't have documentation going back that far. Both paper or digital. My unit when powered on never seems to do a floppy seek, or boot. Caps lock and num lock don't trigger the LEDs. And it has an internal or external display dip switch. The unit always comes up set for external display, even though dip switch is set internal. I hunted inside and found 9 electrolytic caps were leaking. I cleaned up the mess and replaced them, but still no go. The traces I can see that look on the fence all continuity test okay. I have more caps on the way to replace all of the capacitors, and next step will be to look at the power supply output on an oscope to see how good or bad it looks. I have already archived the eprom data, and will be scanning all the documentation and archiving the floppies. I will make it all available online. I have some of the programming docs, some dip switch info, pinouts for the expansion connector (but unfortunatly no hard drive controller connector afaik) and more. Schematics would be good to go with that, as the mainboard has more than 2 layers. -- Ethan O'Toole

9 years

OT: Pentium processor sizes

by starbase89＠gmail.com

Hey. I'm sorry for the off topic post, but I couldn't think of another forum to ask my question. I'm just looking for information as to whether there are different sizes Pentium processor dependent upon whether the processor is for a desktop or laptop. I want to see if I can give my old Hewlett Packard OmniBook a little more juice.

9 years

PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice

by lyokoboy0＠gmail.com

I asked for advice a while back on what to expect with moving a pdp 11, I was told to lock the heads in the rx01 and rx02 drives. I'M getting pretty lost in all the information about the drives, are there any good guides or sites with lots of pictures of the drives taken from different angles apart so i can get a better idea of what im going to be working with? Also, people tell me getting the drives off the rails and out of the rack is a pain, where would i find the appropriate information on how to do that? I really don't want to take the drives out of the rack, but if it comes to it, i would like to know how. I am scheduled to pick this stuff up in 5 days. --Devin

9 years

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test-drb July 2015