At 11:14 PM 2/3/2011, William Donzelli wrote:
>There is currently a pretty big PDP-11/44 collection on Ebay (just
>search for PDP-11/44). It is located in Milwaukee.
Item 130481622084 ? Only $500 so far? Nine days to go. Cheese,
it would be worth that even if you ground it up for gold scrap. :-)
I'm in the area but I don't know what I'd do with it or where to put it.
- John
>> But... electronic ballasts are switching devices and the current
>> is not steady-state. If twice the current flows for half the time,
>> then the power dissipation doubles (Remember, I-squared-R, you doubled
>> I, so I squared goes up by a factor of four.)
> Let's do the math. Suppose the current went from 0.5A to 4A.
> Probably, the 2A fuse in series with this thing would blow. If that
> didn't happen, the resistor would be called on to dissipate about 5W--
> on a transient basis, the resistor could handle this; on sustained
> basis, the resistor would overhead and discolor and the PC board
> would also be discolored. That didn't happen.
> The resistor is a plain-Jane 2W light-brown painted body with orange-
> orange-silver-gold markings. No letterings or other notations, no
> discoloring--just two paint chips missing from the body.
> I can post photos if you want.
You might have heard the rule of thumb that "in the case of an overcurrent
fault, the most expensive component in the circuit will burn out to protect
the fuse". That rule is only slightly facetious. In reality almost any component
(no matter what the $ value) will burn out to protect the fuse :-). You might
think I'm being facetious but I'm not!
I still suspect that, for example, bad bulbs or some other ballast failure had
taken out the resistor.
Fluorescent ballasts and CFL's are not known as places where manufacturers
spend many dollars on high quality components to increase lifetime and
decrease the possibility of failure.
Resistor wattage ratings are not always mathematically related to the maximum
voltage or current that you should put on/through the device. At the high ohm end
(say a 22MOhm 1/2W resistor, which would imply 3300 volts) the calculated voltages are
more than the bodies are rated for, and at the low ohm end (especially for
lowest-bidder resistors) there can be weak spots in film resistors that become
"hot spots" in transient overcurrents you might think the resistor should be able
to survive.
Good metal films can survive massive overload, and all they do is glow bright orange
and burn off their outer coatings. But I strongly hint above, that such good components
will not generally be found in ballasts or CFL's.
Tim.
Preferably *not* the low profile version (which means to me the models that don't have a built in monitor). But then again maybe I'd be better off, because those models had RGB video capability, IINM. I don't know, tell me what you got.
Also *still* looking for Atari ST/Mega/TT/Falcon stuff, working or not.
Does anyone know of the Atari ST related machine that had a built in monitor? Saw the thing on eBay ages ago, should have bid on it.
I hope that you can forgive the off-topic post, but I find myself in desperate need of a "diagnostic" key for a Sun Fire V880.
They're the same for all v880's but I can't get similar ones to fit.
I live in the uk and will willingly send beer vouchers in exchange.
-Austin.
Sent from my iPhone
Hi
Is me and Uncle Roger and the other dude in Italy the only ones w/these things? I have 2, but neither turn on. Anyone know what type of power it requires? I had thought these had color stn displays or something, but now I'm thinking they're just mono. Halp.
Hi! Several weeks ago there was a discussion on CCTALK about a free/open
SCSI to IDE and SD project. I designed a PCB using the Z53C80 and a Z80
with RAM/ROM/UART/IDE and SD. There is a prototype available waiting for
some interested builders to take on the project.
As far as I know none of the builders have a completed unit although I think
if we had at least one working unit the project would make some real
progress. I have four remaining SCSI to IDE/SD prototype boards so if
anyone would like to join the project as a software developer please let me
know. I believe much of the software can be reused from previous N8VEM
and/or other free/open software projects.
http://n8vem-sbc.pbworks.com/w/page/35044530/PCB-Inventory
Thanks and have a nice day!
Andrew Lynch
I have a PDP 11/05 all dressed up and ready to go, stock config. Does
anyone have or be willing to make copies PDP 11/05 or 11/10 papetape
programs available? (diagnostics, assembler, editor, utilities). I have
an ASR 33 and the computer has 8K core.
Worst case I guess I could toggle in the code, then punch it for use next
time!
Bill Degnan
Chuck writes:
> I've been going over a small stack of failed T8 bulb solid-state
> fluorescent lamp ballasts from about the mid 90's. They all have the
> same failure and it suprised me.
>
> There's a 2W 0.33 ohm carbon film resistor used as a current sensing
> element. In all failure cases, the resistor has failed open, with no
> signs of burning, but rather the outer paint flaking off.
>
> To me, this is a puzzle. At 120v, the current through an 0.33 ohm
> resistance in series with a 64W load is about half an amp. I2R gives
> less than a tenth of a watt power dissipation across the resistor.
> (There's also a 2A fuse in series with the whole circuit).
>
> I replaced the failed resistors with 5W composition ones of the same
> value, and they seem to work okay.
>
> But the original failure has left me scratching my head. Does anyone
> have an insight on this type of failure?
If the current is steady-state, your math works out correctly.
But... electronic ballasts are switching devices and the current
is not steady-state. If twice the current flows for half the time,
then the power dissipation doubles (Remember, I-squared-R,
you doubled I, so I squared goes up by a factor of four.)
All that said, it has little to do with your electronic ballasts :-)
I betcha the original resistor was a fusible resistor
to begin with. SMPS 101: when you see a blown up or burnt out
component, you can bet that some other component failed
and took it out.
Typically a fusible resistor will heat up to mildly-red-hot before
it blows. Do the same with a non-fusible metal film and it'll be
fine (if discolored!).
Tim.