test-drb August 2007

test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org

221 participants
459 discussions

by rborsuk＠colourfull.com

Hi All, I've decided to eBay my SWTPC 6800 system which was upgraded years ago to a 6809 CPU board. Complete with disk controller and bunches of memory (for the time). I just don't have the time to give it the TLC it needs. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=300146415357 Rob Rob Borsuk email: rborsuk at colourfull.com Colourfull Creations Web: http://www.colourfull.com

17 years, 3 months

Gooey rollers again.

by ajp166＠bellatlantic.net

> >Subject: Re: Gooey rollers again. > From: ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk (Tony Duell) > Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 23:15:58 +0100 (BST) > To: cctalk at classiccmp.org > >> >and not end up the size or shape you expect. >> >> Actually is fairly easy once you know how. You need a lathe and a rotary >> grinder with the right wheel (correct abrasive). Rather than using the > >What you're describing is known as a 'toolpost grinder' over here. It's a >fairly standard (if expensive) lathe add-on. My description was for the non-machinist amoung us. > >> usual tool (cutting edge) you apply the grinder mounted on the cross peice >> so than you abrade away the urethane, silicone rubber or whatever flexible >> material is used. The process is slow but with care you get excellent >> results. Learned than from a machinest that was really good. > >It works very well (and it's usef for getting very accurate results on >metal too, you can take a much finer cut with a toolpost grinder than you >can with a normal lathe tool). Yep, I used to use that for post finishing oil hardend stainless steel parts. Heat can distort parts so some post finishing is needed for precision work. >Apart from the cost, the other disadvantage is that abrasive dust goes >everyway, including into the 'ways' of the lathe. If you don't clean it >out very carefully, you will do a lot of damage. If the roller (machined part) is rubber it can make a mess as well. When doing metals coolent was always used and that tended to wash abrasives down but rubber tended to clog the pumps and tubes. Major cleanup job. I used to get the opportunity to use the big Monarch lathe for that job as the head machinist knew if I wanted to use the vertical mill or anything for my projects I'd clean it to his specifications without complaint before and after. I rigged a vacuum setup to pick up the waste for him that worked well. Fair trade in my mind! Allison

17 years, 3 months

HP DraftMaster I

by padamsdesign＠mweb.co.za

Hi Me have a big problem connecting a plotter to a computer, no1 is able to help me. Hopefully you can. I have a draftmaster 7595A deeply appreciated if you would offer your help. From: Ambrose

17 years, 3 months

Tube or not Tube( is this the answer.)

by RodSmallwood＠mail.ediconsulting.co.uk

Hi All With regard to changing the tube in the VR201 and following the advice I had been given. I set about locating a replacement tube. I opened up half a dozen Dec and HP terminals. All with the same result. In all cases the EHT connector was on the short side of the tube and the tube had mounting lugs attached to a metal band arount the front of the tube. Contrast this with the VR201 which has the EHT connector on the long side and a wire frame arrangement to hold the tube in. Comments welcome Rod Smallwood The DecCollecctor

17 years, 3 months

DEC Rainbow Hard drive.

by RodSmallwood＠mail.ediconsulting.co.uk

Hi The MSDOS Hard Drive partition utility on the DEC Rainbow gives you two partitions( E and F.) There's no choice, that's what you get. However neither E nor F are on the boot list. So the question is "How do I set the partitions to C and D and make C: bootable?" Rod Smallwood

17 years, 3 months

Gooey rollers again.

by ajp166＠bellatlantic.net

> >Subject: Re: Gooey rollers again. > From: ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk (Tony Duell) > Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 22:23:07 +0100 (BST) > To: cctalk at classiccmp.org > >> >> I picked up a nice Decision Data model 8010 keypunch machine through >> govliquidation. >> It looks to be in good shape EXCEPT some rollers have turned to goo. >> They act just >> like peanut butter, looks like it too. These are not simple round >> rollers but are tapered, >> and there are 16 of them in a complex arrangement. Any ideas on how to >> fix them? >> I guess I'm going to have to find some suitable plastic and turn them on >> a lathe. Probably >> beyond my ability. > >Turning flixible materials is not easy, the darn stuff tends to distort >and not end up the size or shape you expect. Actually is fairly easy once you know how. You need a lathe and a rotary grinder with the right wheel (correct abrasive). Rather than using the usual tool (cutting edge) you apply the grinder mounted on the cross peice so than you abrade away the urethane, silicone rubber or whatever flexible material is used. The process is slow but with care you get excellent results. Learned than from a machinest that was really good. The real trick is getting basic materials to make said rollers even if they are the wrong length and shape but larger. Allison > >I've heard that cooling it to dry ice temperature helps. Liquid nitrogen >is too cold, the stuff then behaves like glass and just shatters. > > >Another posibility would be to make a mould and cast new parts using one >of the 2-part synthetic elastomers. The name 'Devcon' seems to ring a >bell for this, maybe a google search will find something. There's a book >entitled something like 'How to cast small metal and rubber parts' that >covers this, it's aimed at the classic car restoration gugs, but the >principles should be the same :-) > >-tony

17 years, 3 months

Anyone got a small VAX going spare?

by lproven＠gmail.com

A few years ago, a friend of mine gave me a MicroVAX - I think a 3100. I never got round to doing anything with it, then he asked for it back, pending giving me a newer, better machine - but then his life went a bit pear-shaped and he lost his entire collection, leaving me VAXless. It now emerges I have an urgent need to polish up my VMS knowledge, which is a good excuse. I was thus wondering if anyone in England - ideally, around the SE - had any spare VAXen they might part with for an impoverished fellow-hobbyist? I don't really need disks - I have a small stockpile of SCSI drives and maybe even some ESDIs somewhere. It does need to be otherwise running, though. I have SCSI CD-ROMs available and a Hobbyist CD somewhere. In the meantime, I'll try SIMH, but I'd much prefer real hardware if possible. In an ideal world, I would really love an old VAXstation. I used to rather like DECwindows and would love to play with it again... -- Liam Proven ? Profile: http://www.linkedin.com/in/liamproven Email: lproven at cix.co.uk ? GMail/GoogleTalk/Orkut: lproven at gmail.com Tel: +44 20-8685-0498 ? Cell: +44 7939-087884 ? Fax: + 44 870-9151419 AOL/AIM/iChat: liamproven at aol.com ? MSN/Messenger: lproven at hotmail.com Yahoo: liamproven at yahoo.co.uk ? Skype: liamproven ? ICQ: 73187508

17 years, 3 months

DEC Rainbow Hard drive.

by RodSmallwood＠mail.ediconsulting.co.uk

Thanks ... 60 year old brains forget more than they remember. Needless to say it all came back to me and now it boots off the hard drive just fine. Thanks Rod -----Original Message----- From: cctech-bounces at classiccmp.org [mailto:cctech-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Jeffrey Armstrong Sent: 29 August 2007 14:14 To: cctalk at classiccmp.org Subject: Re: DEC Rainbow Hard drive. > The MSDOS Hard Drive partition utility on the DEC Rainbow gives you > two partitions( E and F.) There's no choice, that's what you get. > However neither E nor F are on the boot list. > So the question is "How do I set the partitions to C and D and make C: > bootable?" On a Rainbow, drives C and D always refer to the third and fourth floppy drives. Your hard drive is set up properly right now. To boot from the hard drive, you'll need to choose 'W' for Winchester hard drive at the boot menu. If you are using a Rainbow 100-A, this option is not present in the boot menu, and you're out of luck as far as booting to the hard disk is concerned (I beleive). If you have a 100-B or 100+ (which is just a B anyway), The W option should be present on the main menu. SImply select W and another menu may or may not appear allowing you to choose which partition to boot from. You can quickly tell if you have a 100 A or B by either: 1. Looking at the model number on the back of the unit near the power plug (PC-100-A is a Rainbow 100 A, PC-100-B or -B2 is obviously a Rainbow 100 B) 2. Looking at the firmware version on the boot menu ( Version 4.XX or less is a Rainbow 100 A, Version 5.XX or higher is a 100 B). Hope this helps! -Jeff jba at sdf.lonestar.org SDF Public Access UNIX System - http://sdf.lonestar.org

17 years, 3 months

INS4004D in Pro-Log M900 PROM Programmer

by dm561＠torfree.net

---------------Original Message: Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 10:19:06 +1000 From: "river" <river at zip.com.au> Subject: Re: INS4004D in Pro-Log M900 PROM Programmer Hi, <snip> Of course, I could get side-tracked and just use my expanded AIM65 system - as it has all the monitor/debug software, enough IO ports and the built in display...... ;) <snip> Seeyuzz River ------------Reply: As a matter of fact, the AIM is perfect for programming 2716 & 25/2732 EPROMs; the 24V printer supply is OK for Vpp (and the printer also comes in useful) and of course there's RS-232 for up/down-loading. With an adapter you could even do larger EPROMS 32K at a time. The first thing I did with my first AIM was to homebrew some battery-backed RAM (no Dallas NVRAMs in those days) and an EPROM programmer: an 8212, a ZIF socket and a switch to turn Vpp on/off is all I used, and it plugs nicely onto the expansion connector. I still use the AIM for reading and/or editing ROM images, although better programmers have taken over that function. Later Rockwell also published schematic and software for an EPROM burner add-on, but it had a few more parts than my minimalist version. m

17 years, 3 months

Tektronix 4002 Terminal found

by Arno_1983＠gmx.de

Here is the card inventory of my terminal: (left card cage front-to-back) TC1 Keyboard Logic TC2 Output Data Selector -- empty slot -- TC4 Scratch Pad Control TC5 Scratch Pad -- empty slot -- TC7 Control Function Decoder TC8 Char Rotor Bypass TC9 Y DA TC10 Y Data Register TC11 IN OUT Data Routing TC12 X Data Register TC13 X DAC TC14 Internal Data Routing TC15 Scan Control TC16 Char Gen Mem -- empty slot -- TC18 Plot Control TC19 I/O Control (right card cage front-to-back) Parallel to Serial Converter Serial to Parallel Converter TTY Port Timing TTY Port Level Conv. (the ejector tabs of the last two boards are yellow and have the words "Do not remove card with power on" on them). The cards all seem to be coded with gaps between their contact fingers so they can't be installed backwards or into the wrong slot. I think I can risk the guess that the missing cards would carry the designations TC3, TC6 and TC17. David Gesswein <djg at pdp8.net> wrote: > I have the 4002A drawer unit and keyboard maintenance manual. I don't > have the monitor manual. I also have the 611 monitor manual. Not sure > how close either will be to your unit. The 4002A looks similar to the > picture online. It will be a couple weeks before I can scan them if they > are useful. The 4002A maintenance manual should be correct for my unit (it has that designation on the back). Thanks for offering to scan it, it would of course be nice to have it available in digital form. If the missing cards are necessary for the operation of the terminal, I'm afraid I won't be able to do much about it in the foreseeable future. So long, -- Arno Kletzander Stud. Hilfskraft Informatik Sammlung Erlangen www.iser.uni-erlangen.de GMX FreeMail: 1 GB Postfach, 5 E-Mail-Adressen, 10 Free SMS. Alle Infos und kostenlose Anmeldung: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/freemail

17 years, 3 months

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test-drb August 2007