I have 25 linear feet of old databooks. I've kept them partly out of
sentimentality and partly because I have to fix stuff of that era now
and then.
The data sheet archives I've seen on the web are woefully incomplete.
Does anyone know of anyone/anything that collects these?
--------Original Message:
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2007 08:34:37 -0500
From: "Dave Dunfield" <dave06a at dunfield.com>
Subject: Re: TESTFDC usage
<snip>
To completely test the FDC, you need to check Single, Double and
Double/128 at each of 250, 300 and 500 kbps rates. These are
represented in a standard PC at:
250 = 5.25 low-density drive only, 3.5" low-density diskette
300 = 5.25 Low-density diskette in high-density drive
500 = 5.25" or 2.5" high-density diskette
So to check all possible data rates without a 300/360 modded drive,
you need to run two tests - either the 5.25" LD and HD drives, or a
5.25" HD and 3.5" drive.
----------------------
I also wanted to do some testing but, despite our off-list correspondence,
I'm still confused:
5.25" drive, 3.5" diskette ???
2.5" diskette ???
3.5" drive - LD or HD?
Exactly what tests should be run with what size/density disk in what size/
density/speed drive in order to get a complete picture?
mike
I've been checking through the stuff I have around here and I've decided
that I have a few surplus PC mobos that I'll be getting rid of (via a
certain auction site). Before I do I thought I'd try them out with
TESTFDC
and see what it says.
I have three 5.25" drives (of currently unknown functionality) which I
could use. One is a DEC RX33, one is a Tandon TM75-8 and the last one
is a Sankyo (or that might just be the motor manufacturer :-)). I also
have whatever is sitting in my main machine, but I'm not keen to
drag that out just foir fun! I also have a few 1.44MB 3.5" drives, but
they've not been used in quite some time, so heaven knows what state
they are in.
So what do I need to do to extract the maximum useful information
about these motherboards (aside, that is, from checking that they
are not already on the list :-))? And exactly what media will I need?
Should I test both 3.5" and 5.25" (I've not tried the 300/360 mod yet;
I may do in the future, but for now I'd just like to get some
testing done)?
Anything to watch out for?
Any particular version of DOS recommended (I have 6.2? kicking around,
would FreeDOS do if that is easier to find)?
Thanks
Antonio
Hi,
> Well, I don't know whether they're "plasma/LCD" or not, but I
>find I get dramatically better picture quality out of flat-screens
>as compared to CRTs.
Well, the last two CRTs I bought are flat-screen so I'm not sure exactly
what you're getting at.
The biggest problems with LCD panels are colour registration, black
level/contrast and response time. Even with top of the range panels, their
comparatively slow response time leads to very noticable blurring when
things move around on the screen - and I'm not talking about games here, I
find this blurring totally unacceptable even when scrolling text windows,
etc.
And the colour/contrast/black level problems are a total show stopper when
I'm dealing with video....
> I don't know whether this just means every CRT I've used has been crap,
>or perhaps I *am* "profoundly blind", but even if so, in my experience
>the comparison stands.
I wouldn't have thought so, IME even the cheapest/crappest CRT is head and
shoulders above even the most expensive LCD panel. It all depends what your
expectations are....
TTFN - Pete.
Tim wrote:
> I've done it in classes taught and led and supervised by professionals
> :-).
> That doesn't make me a pro!
>
> Tim.
>
Diethyl Zinc process? Brave man...
Magnesium Oxide/perflourocarbon could work for the amateur, though.
>
> The shiny, ultra-thin paper often found in databooks actually seems to
> fare
> better than coarser "book" type paper in my experience. I'm not sure
> why -
> maybe it's more resistant to absorbing moisture from the air or
> something.
>
Moisture is a problem only if it's really high (mold predominantly,
although sizing can soften and stick pages together). The big problem
with many paperbacks is the so-called "high acid" paper with
appreciable quantities of lignin in it - the lignin changes into acid
and causes the paper to self-destruct. Think yellowing, crumbling
paperbacks...
I'm not sure what the paper of choice for databooks is, generally if a
book uses sized bond paper it's not at highest risk, but for the most
part wood paper made before the '80s will have some degree of risk (and
more modern papers that are not acid-free archival grade).
LOC (Library of Congress) has a fairly large group devoted to this
problem, and a process fior neutralization that works pretty well
(although if you do it wrong or make a mistake stuff bursts into
flame). They point out that it is "not recommended for those who are
not professionals".
A long shot I know, but does anyone have any service
docs for these things? I tentatively have 6 at the
moment! and of the lot only 1 works. Oi. Halp.
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