Does anyone have an electronic copy of the SCSI-1 spec (scans or OCR)? I'm
homebrewing some SASI stuff, but figured it'd probably be possible to add SCSI
support on the same board (hence the hardware parity question yesterday).
I suspect the latest SCSI spec *is* around as a PDF, but 90% of it's likely
not relevant to dealing with vintage SCSI devices! :-)
Failing that, I suspect that some device manuals (such as disk/tape bridge
boards) might have useful SCSI documentation within - so recommendations
welcome! (I've got a few OMTI, Xebec and Emulex ones here, but despite calling
themselves SCSI they tend not to cover arbitration, parity, unit attention
etc. and are more like SASI in nature)
cheers
Jules
Richard wrote:
Dude! That is very similar to the 2741-ish terminal that I used in
1979 and ran at 134.5 baud. I have been looking high and low for even
a picture of this puppy and you got one, you lucky bastard! :-)
[snip]
If you want to unload that beast, just let me know as its something
I've really been looking hard for over the past couple of years!
--
I second that. I've been looking for Selectric based terminals, stand
alones, Durawriters, & console I/O writers for many years. Never found a
single one.
What a great find. I'll stand right behind Richard should you ever want to
part with it.
Billy
Of course, all replies offlist.
Roger needs a new AT keyboard converter to finish his CoCo repack... (and a
newer laptop) and there's a lot of Ham Radio enthusiasts here, so I
apologize for the offtopicness of the forsale, and if I've done bad things,
slap me in the face with a frozen mackerel... but hey... at least it's not
a linux distro advocacy thread!
I haven't used my Icom 746 in a few years, so I'm going to sell it.
$750 + shipping (your choice of USPS, UPS, FedEx or DHL) from 49783 (I can
have the weight available for anyone interested this evening - it's already
packed up) - It's super-clean, no scratches on the faceplate or finish
(well, except around the screws, but that's to be expected) No dust or
anything on the inside - and it does have 2 installed crystals (of the six
max.) a CFK455K-5 DSP filter, and an Icom FL-272 9Mhz/2.4KHz SSB filter.
I'm also selling the 35A 12V *linear* power supply that will run this and
much more - also super clean, only used a few times - it's a Victory PS35 -
$80 + shipping.
I have pictures here - they're unsorted, but they're named fairly aptly:
http://www.1400rpm.com/epay
As the directory name suggests, if I have no takers, they'll be on ePay
next Sunday. The *cheapest* 746 sold on ePay lately was for $760, and that
was with inflated shipping. ;-)
I apologize for the pictures - I've had "depth of field issues" with my
Nikon D70 in the past, so I was tinkering with the settings - these are
around 1-second exposures with natural light at maximum aperture. I had a
tripod, but the long exposure time still didn't do me any favors with
sharpness, but hey - at least the DOF is better!!! ;-) I'd be happy to
provide better pictures on request.
Again, thanks for not lynching me (yet) and all responses offlist.
Thanks,
Roger "Merch" Merchberger
--
Roger "Merch" Merchberger | Anarchy doesn't scale well. -- Me
zmerch at 30below.com. |
SysAdmin, Iceberg Computers
Re: "It looks like the Heath colors from the H8 series. I suspect it is a
very limited edition of a Heath terminal"
Heath never made anything in any color even remotely resembling that [blue],
nor did Heath ever offer a selectric-based product. [The only colors used
by Heath computer products were black, a cream off-white, two shades of
gray, and the beige/tan colors used in the Z-100 and some other products.]
In fact, Selectric-based printers had disappeared (as new products) by the
time Heath entered the PC business, relatively late, in 1977.
Barry Watzman
[former Product Line Director for Heathkit computers and Zenith Data
Systems]
> I have a few Burroughs Cartridges for a SyQuest 100 tapes.. any idea what
> model SyQuest drive these are for?
They are 5.5mb removable disc cartridges, most likely for the Convergent
Miniframe. There is mention of it in R.D. Davis' FAQ
" 2.4 Were any hard drive interfaces, other than the ST-
506, used with the Miniframe?
From the writings of Clarence Dold, dold at rahul.net:
No. There was a driver for the removable SyQuest 5MB cartridge, which
was mounted as drive one, leaving the odd quirk that the machine wants
to boot drive one rst, if one is available "
The SQ306 is, in fact, an ST506 compatible drive.
If you are able to read these, the Computer History Museum would be interested.
There is an effort within the Software Preservation Group to save CTOS software
and related hardware.
------------Original Message:
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 06:32:06 -0700
From: jd <onymouse at garlic.com>
Subject: Re: ST506 WTB:Micropolis 1325
<snip>
>Seagates before that which all failed when the warranty chip timed out.
LOL!!
Hmmm... do you suppose...?
m
At 5:32 -0500 4/10/07, Sridhar wrote:
Sridhar and Andy,
Good suggestions below. I have a couple of additions, based
on my (limited) experience working on the flight hardware on a couple
of pretty contamination-sensitive projects I've worked on. Sorry for
the delay, I was ( :-) ) working on one of the projects, albeit not
one at the clean-room stage, rather than keeping up with my email.
>Basically, the purpose of the clean box is to ensure that the air you're
>working in is clean. The box should be made from something that won't
>turn readily into dust, for example, it should *not* be made of
>cardboard. Plastic works best.
Painted metal is what we use for practically all of our work.
With the right paint, it can be grounded (through resistors) to
eliminate the chance of ESD; that's hard with plastics. Also, most of
the instruments I've worked on are *very* sensitive to contamination
>from hydrocarbons. That affects several of the statements I make
below, and it precludes most kinds of plastic. Delrin, lexan, and a
few others with extremely low outgassing properties are still OK, but
there are a lot of plastics that are not allowed in the clean room.
I expect this would be much less of an issue (except for the
ESD considerations) for something other than UV optics or
microchannel detectors.
>Also, the box should have at least one clear side. I used perspex for
>the sides and top and thick rigid PVC for the base. It's important for
>you to be able to see what you're working on.
>
>Third, it's important to get the box sealed up well, so use plenty of
>thick silicone sealant along the corners. And make real sure that the
>silicone is completely and thoroughly dry and set up before you use the
>clean box. It also couldn't hurt to join the corners on a miter. In
>mine, I use a false bottom that holds together with some bolts to make
>it easier to open and close the box, so I can get tools and items to be
>repaired in and out of the box.
In my experience, sealing is a non-issue. In fact,
practically all of our clean rooms, clean boxes, etc. have open
apertures of one size or another, cracks, vents, etc. What *is*
critical is that the volume have positive pressure maintained inside
of it while any work is going on.
Generally, with a good high-volume but low-pressure supply of
clean air, all the dust is removed (blown out the apertures) within
about 15 minutes of starting the supply.
Of course, if the air supply fails or is shut off, we close
things up pretty well and pretty quick, to keep dust from migrating
back in. We also wipe down surfaces from time to time, so that
whatever dust does manage to accumulate doesn't get stirred up during
work. For wiping down, Isopropyl alcohol (um, propan-2-ol?) and
lint-free wipes ("Kimwipes" brand, in the US) are the standards.
One thing you may not have to worry about is the idea that to
us silicone is a four-letter word. Silicone oils are *very* easy to
inadvertently transport all over the work via accidental contact on a
gloved finger, *very* hard to remove, and fatal to several of the
detectors and optics we use. So we don't allow any of that kind of
material in the clean room as a general principle.
>Fourth, it's a good idea to use an inert gas supply. For reasons of
>availability and price, the best choice might be nitrogen.
Danger, Will Robinson! I second Simon's caution - do not allow N2 to
accumulate in the volume you are breathing out of! Even though the
box is "sealed", N2 will be leaking out into the room. If enough of
that happens before the room air is replaced (by an open window, or
whatever) you die. We don't want that.
>Bottled
>nitrogen won't be completely clean,
A liquid nitrogen dewar is a good supply of clean nitrogen, but that
may not be such a useful suggestion ....
Meantime, with bottled, regulated nitrogen, you may well have issues
with hydrocarbons (if you care about that). Hoses that have been used
downstream (or even upstream) of vacuum pumps can have some of the
lubricating oil on the inside. Many regulators have grease or oil
which can get into the downstream side. If you choose to go this
route, you might consider SCUBA gear and plain compressed air (and a
filter). Most SCUBA equipment and air suppliers are pretty careful
about atomizing oil into divers' lungs, so that can help you.
In general, if it has a noticeable odor, it's got some sort of
hydrocarbon outgassing or contamination, and we would not use it.
Most folks have noses which give them a lot more information than
they pay attention to.
All that said, we don't use any of that for clean-room work. We use
*only* a HEPA (HEPA is a key descriptor, here) filter on the output
end of a good ventilation system. We are reasonably careful about the
input supply (ie no diesel trucks parking right next to the air
inlet), but that's about all. Paxton's comments (hey, if it's good
enough for pizza, it's good enough for a hard drive :-) ) are very
well taken here.
We do use a liquid N2 dewar to supply purge gas which is tubed
directly into some instruments to make sure humidity, fumes from
drying adhesives, diesel fumes from outside, etc. do not get into the
detector and UV optics, but that comes at a really low supply rate
and I don't think any of those considerations are applicable to hard
drives or to most electronics.
>so an air filter is probably a good
>idea. Don't use a paper one, obviously. I use a glass allergen filter.
A good HEPA filter on a high-volume air supply (ie one that exchanges
air in the work area about once every 15 seconds or so) is really
*all* you need, in my experience. Put the work upstream of the hands
and tools, wipe down the work area with IPA and kimwipes, let the
supply run for an hour or so before you start, and I think you should
be down to a pretty low level of particulates.
> And the gas should go through a regulator. If it comes out too
>quickly, it could get supercooled, and that would not be fun. And don't
>forget to create a gas outlet with a one-way valve, to prevent outside
>air from getting in. If you don't put in an outlet, the gas will find
>its own outlet, and that won't be good.
True, but see above. Letting the gas get out any (many) ways is OK,
as long as it's getting out fast enough that none or not much can
come back in.
>Obviously, it isn't possible to work in a completely sealed cube. You
>also need a place to put your hands into the box to actually *do* the
>work. The most reasonable method for doing this is to attach a pair of
>gloves to the box itself. Again, getting a good seal between the box
>and the glove is of paramount importance. Use a sealant material which
>has enough flexibility to do the job. Also, it would be a good idea to
>have a way of changing the gloves without tearing the box apart. I
>mounted my gloves to the box on opposite ends of the box so that I can
>get my hands to anywhere in the box.
Good for flexibility with the work, bad for staying downstream of the
clean air supply.
If anyone is interested, I can try to grab pictures of some of our
work setups around here. They are probably fancier than what you'd
want, though.
>One thing I didn't think of until
>after I had built the box is that the positive pressure inside the box
>doesn't have to be very high, so you don't have to use gloves that are
>very rigid. I used pipefitters' gloves the first time, and I lost a lot
>of fine control. I suggest using something much thinner.
>
>Experiment! It's the easiest way to figure this stuff out. And let me
>know how it goes. I'd be interested to know. Good luck.
>
>Peace... Sridhar
There are particulate counters, but not cheap. One idea for a test is
to set up your work area, lay a *clean* mirror in it facing up, and
leave it overnight. (or do some non-critical work in the area for a
few hours). Then look at the mirror under a really bright light or
(even better) a UV light. If it still looks clean, you are probably
OK.
I'm hoping Tony D. (and many others) chime in (or have already done)
on this thread; I suspect there's much experience out there more
applicable than mine.
--
- Mark, 210-379-4635
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Large Asteroids headed toward planets
inhabited by beings that don't have
technology adequate to stop them:
Think of it as Evolution in Fast-Forward.
Dave McGuire wrote:
> On Apr 16, 2007, at 7:11 PM, Fred Cisin wrote:
>
>>> On Apr 16, 2007, at 5:07 PM, Joost van de Griek wrote:
>>>
>>>> "Never ascribe to malice what can be explained by stupidity."
>>>> - Nadine (Velociraptor)
>>>
>>> Hey, I know her! I can just picture her saying that too. ;)
>>
>> It has also often ben attributed to Napoleon, Gordon Liddy, and
>> "Hanlon".
>
> Yep...It's very much Nadine's style, though. :)
Plus, I added it to my collection after she posted it to the list. So AFAIC, it stays attributed to her. I'm sure you're in my file somewhere, too. Something about suits. :-)
,xtG
tsooJ
