You are correct, Tony, board swapping tricked me (this time)!
I think I can forget the RK07 drive for now, and concentrate on the RK611
controller. First, I checked the flat cable from the controller M7904 (drive
interface) module to the home-made bulkhead. That flat cable is 100% OK.
The round cable from the bulkhead to the drive is NOS, and the label is
70-12292-25, so I'm sure it is the RK06/RK07 drive cable, not the RL0x cable.
Before pulling out all kind of equipment, I started with what a DEC engineer
probably also would do: run the diagnostics! So, I loaded XXDP and ran
ZR6A??.??? which is the test "RK611 diskless controller diagnostic #1".
Here is the output.
.R ZR6A??.???
ZR6AD0.BIN
RK611 DISKLESS DIAGNOSTIC: PART 1 CZR6AD0
@
ATTEMPTING TO CLEAR CS1 WITH A SUB CLEAR
BUS ADD INCORRECT
TEST ERROR
NUM PC
000041 033024
PREV EXPECT ACTUAL
VALUE VALVE VALVE
013776 000200 100200
So, there is already a problem with the RK611 controller reported after the
diagnostic runs some 5 seconds! A few months ago I scanned a pile of XXDP
doc, but the ZR6A et al. was not amongst them :-(
I am not sure I have a spare RK611 controller board set (going to the attick
after this e-mail), but can somebody tell me which board is likely to be suspected?
thanks,
- Henk.
________________________________
Van: cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org namens Tony Duell
Verzonden: zo 22-01-2006 19:51
Aan: cctalk at classiccmp.org
Onderwerp: Re: RK07 questions
> It also shows that I am not completely out of the weeds ...
Do you know that the controller and cabling are OK? Or could the fault
not be in the drive?
-tony
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>From: "Philip Pemberton" <philpem at dsl.pipex.com>
>
>In message <200601200513.AAA06586 at Sparkle.Rodents.Montreal.QC.CA>
> der Mouse <mouse at rodents.montreal.qc.ca> wrote:
>
>> Letting the printer sit will improve matters somewhat, but only
>> somewhat; recently, I've even had the first page come out with some
>> streakiness.
>
>I'd guess it could be the erase lamps for the photoconductor drum. If they're
>not working properly (or firing then going out) then you might end up with
>this fault. I'd defeat the interlocks and cartridge sensors, then cover the
>laser aperture and see if the erase lamp comes on before the paper starts
>feeding. IIRC the procedure is in the service manual.
>
>Failing that, it could be a dirty transfer wire, or maybe a dirty (or worn)
>drum cleaning wiper.
>
Hi
I had a similar problem that was buildup of toner on the drum.
It would not completely erase. I tried just about everything and
then finally changed the tone/drum unit. This fixed it. It seems
that the drums get old just sitting. Like his, it would print
the first sheet OK and then get worse as I printed more.
I'd suspect that one could bake the drum and it would work
better again. My guess is that it is moisture getting into
the drum surface. The 3si uses the organic drum.
Still, he should do a general cleanup of things.
Dwight
>From: "Richard" <legalize at xmission.com>
>
>
>In article <200601231747.JAA13413 at ca2h0430.amd.com>,
> "Dwight Elvey" <dwight.elvey at amd.com> writes:
>
>> My personal opinion is that the drum absorbs some moisture
>> and toner tends to stick to it in a non-static way. [...]
>
>I live in the desert and use my printer fairly often and I've had this
>problem.
Well, so much for the moisture theory. It definitely was
connected to the toner cartridge. I'm wondering if it
isn't the wiper somehow. When I looked at mine, the wiper
looked to be in good shape but who knows, it might have
just looked good. When I find time to fiddle, I might
take the old cartridge out and give a really good inpection.
Dwight
>From: ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk
>
>> I had exactly the same problems with my 5M and after doing almost
>> everything I could think of I finally read the manual (please don't
>> quote me here :-). Turned out this symptom is most commonly fixed by
>> replacing the toner cartridge which (perhaps not so surprisingly)
>> fixed the problem.
>
>It would be interesting to know what went wrong with the old cartridge.
>Is it that the drum is damaged in some way and doesn't discharge
>properly usder the erasing lamps? Or is it that the wiper blade doesn't
>clean the surface of the drum properly? Or what?
>
>-tony
Hi
My personal opinion is that the drum absorbs some moisture
and toner tends to stick to it in a non-static way. On my machine
it didn't happen when I was using it regularly but after
some non-use in the winter time. The new drum works fine.
It had the same problem. Right after turning on I'd get maybe
two sheets printed before streaks would start to build up.
Visual inspection of the drum showed toner remaining on
the drum.
I still have the old toner box and I've though of removing
the drum and baking it for a while in the oven to see if it
recovers. The toner is about half full. One can't bake both
or the toner might turn into a lump. One would have to remove
the drum. I've had one of these apart once and they are a
little tricky to get apart but it can be done.
Dwight
All:
I'm making that front panel power switch mod and I have a small
9v wall wart that I pulled apart, and a 9v relay. I want to encapsulate the
whole thing in a box. I don't know much about potting compounds - what would
be the best compound for this application?
Rich
Rich Cini
Collector of classic computers
Build Master for the Altair32 Emulation Project
Web site: <http://highgate.comm.sfu.ca/~rcini/classiccmp/>
http://highgate.comm.sfu.ca/~rcini/classiccmp/
/************************************************************/
der Mouse <mouse at Rodents.Montreal.QC.CA> wrote:
> I have an HP LaserJet IIISi. (...) The second page exhibits a few
> grey vertical streaks, worse towards the bottom of the page - not
> clean vertical lines; it looks as though toner is getting into the
> paper path where it shouldn't, and rubbing off on the page before
> it hits the fuser. Printing more pages works fine, but they get
> worse and worse. I've never had the streaks get so dark that I
> can't read printing for them, but the printing definitely becomes
> black-on-grey instead of black-on-white.
ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk (Tony Duell) wrote:
> It would be interesting to know what went wrong with the old cartridge.
> Is it that the drum is damaged in some way and doesn't discharge
> properly usder the erasing lamps? Or is it that the wiper blade doesn't
> clean the surface of the drum properly? Or what?
Hmm, sounds a bit familiar. I had such problems with an HP LaserJet 4
and a Brother HL-1260 (which uses the same toner/drum unit) up to now.
However, I didn't notice them being less streaky after being turned
off for a while, so it might really be a problem with the erasing
lamp or something similar in your case. You might want to test that
by swapping another drum unit in.
With me, the problem always was the drum wiper. You have to disassemble
the drum/toner/waste toner cartridge a bit to get there (there's two
plastic brackets fastened with screws on the top side with springs
hidden underneath; remove those and the toner reservoir separates,
then unscrew the right drum bearing - a metal part with a pin
extending into the drum, two screws -, remove the drum and stick it
in a dark bag or closet. I always worked in a darkened room up to
here. Behind the drum, there is a black rubber roller that snaps out
of two spring-loaded bearings, and a metal plate which holds the drum
wiper (two screws). Remove that plate and while you're at it, empty
the waste toner chamber behind it into a plastic bag. Then comes the
tricky part - readjusting the wiper. It's a near-transparent elastic
profile. Firstly clean it with a paper towel - there will be some
toner on it. You may see it's a bit out of shape when the streaks
have a characteristic distribution across the page; try to straighten
the edge a bit. You can use bits of paper with holes punched under the areas
where the metal is screwed to the plastic casing to bring the
wiper towards the drum axis or to modify the angle under which it
touches the drum surface when you reassemble the unit; it sometimes
takes two or three attempts to get it right.)
Of course, that only makes sense if there is still a substantial
amount of toner in the cartridge; if not, changing it is perhaps
better.
--
Arno Kletzander
Stud. Hilfskraft Informatik Sammlung Erlangen
www.iser.uni-erlangen.de
10 GB Mailbox, 100 FreeSMS/Monat http://www.gmx.net/de/go/topmail
+++ GMX - die erste Adresse f?r Mail, Message, More +++
Hi,
does anyone have, or know of an online "quick reference" manual or similar
for RT11 V5? I have just got RT11 on an 11/23+, but have never used the
software before, so I'm very much in the dark!
Alternatively, does anyone in the UK have a paper set of RT11 manuals that
they no-longer have space for?
Thanks
Jim.
Please see our website the " Vintage Communication Pages" at WWW.G1JBG.CO.UK
The 4010 consists of a card cage with a well defined bus interface.
Has any hobbyist done a hardware hack by creating a card for its
internal bus?
--
"The Direct3D Graphics Pipeline"-- code samples, sample chapter, FAQ:
<http://www.xmission.com/~legalize/book/>
Pilgrimage: Utah's annual demoparty
<http://pilgrimage.scene.org>
I've heard that the Computer History Museum in Mountain View CA is a good one. Any comments? If
one had to choose only one (pre-PC) computer history museum to visit in the US, would that be the
one to choose?
Please provide leads to any other good computer museums in the US that have good hardware
collections. I'm interested in pre-PC computer history only. The history of IC technology
development also interests me and I'd enjoy hearing about any US museums/exhibits which focus on
that topic.
Thanks,
Bill
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