test-drb June 2005

test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org

221 participants
681 discussions

by dwight.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "John Lawson" <jpl15 at panix.com> > >I'm the only collector in NV (that I know of) - and t'weren't moi.... > > >Cheerz > >John Hi I was in Nevada, just this weekend! Dwight

20 years, 1 month

IBM 5155 analogue display fault

by dwight.elvey＠amd.com

>From: jpero at sympatico.ca >> > > But PCB tracks can be easily un-cut -- just solder a piece of wire >> > > over the break. Wire-wrap wire (stripped, of course) is ideal for >> > > this. >> > > >> > >> > Yikes! >> > >> > I am the guy who in the past has had to figure out what the HECK is >> > wrong with a board, where somebody 'just tacked a piece of wire along >> > the track.' Such forms of modification/repair often _disguise_ a wiring >> >> I have _never_ had a problem doing this (read : I've never had such a >> repair fail, even after <n> years). Now a blob of solder across a break >> will _not_ hold, you must put the wire there. >> >> I typically put at least 1/2" of wire on each side of the break and >> solder it down. >> >> -tony > >Yikes? I do this for TV/Projector, PC boards all the times on >tracks that comes off for any reason, bridge cracked PCB etc. I >scrape off mask and polish it with eraser rod and lay sized and cut >to length if needed pre-shaped to follow the bends in the trace and >solder. > >This repair method is stronger. > >Cheers, Wizard > Hi Medical equipment standards are a little different than what we do. I also do this type of repair and consider it more than adequate. There are several problems though. First is that if one scrapes the plating off to bare copper, a solder to copper joint ages to form a high resistance connection. This is increased by temperature ( mostly a problem in high power locations and old tube circuits ). The other reason is that such joints are sometime difficult to verify if the solder was properly done, especially when the wire is large compared to the trace. Dwight

20 years, 1 month

Idiot Alert

by vcf＠siconic.com

Will someone please talk to this guy before he single-handedly renders this hobby utterly ridiculous!?!? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5201588973&rd=1&sspagena… -- Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org [ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ] [ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]

20 years, 1 month

"Pozidriv" [was Re: Tools (was: IBM 5155 analogue display fault]

by dwight.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "Paul Koning" <pkoning at equallogic.com> > >>>>>> "Joe" == Joe R <rigdonj at cfl.rr.com> writes: > > Joe> You mean $napOn! Checkout the ads in NutsNVolts, you can buy a > Joe> whole set of interchangeable bits for about $5. That's a > Joe> fraction of what SnapOn or the TechTool suppliers will charge > Joe> you for a single bit. > >Yes. The difference is that stuff that cheap typically doesn't fit >and doesn't stand up to use. > >I once bought a cheap drillbit set. What I got was a box full of >pieces of drillrod. They pretty much all had a spiral groove cut in >the sides, though often only just barely. And there usually was at >least a trace of a bevel at the tip. Cutting edge? Dream on... > >Fortunately, the seller honored his money-back guarantee. > >That's not to say I now buy my drill bits from SnapOn. But it does >mean that I avoid Harbor Freight and all their clones for stuff like >this. I only buy cheap tools when I understand the limitations. Cheap socket sets are only good for making spacers and tools to drive out seals and bearings. Dwight > > paul > >

20 years, 1 month

Question about PDF manipulation

by dwight.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "Jules Richardson" <julesrichardsonuk at yahoo.co.uk> > ---snip-- > >If it's proprietary then the less use it is for a long-term archival >format though, surely? Same goes for complexity; increased complexity of >the format makes it harder to extract the data without the relevant >tool, which of course might be difficult to find in years to come... > >cheers > >Jules Hi The distinction between a distribution tool and an archival tool. For images, the best archival format that I know of is the tiff. Not so much that there are copious tools for it but because it is about as simple a formatting for images as one can get. When down loading I prefer pdf's. It doesn't mean that I think that an archive should use pdf's to store the images. Dwight

20 years, 1 month

C128 CPM Boot Disk

by jrice54＠vzavenue.net

Anyone have a CPM+ boot disk for a Commodore 128D?

20 years, 1 month

Inland ProBackup 500 sought (pinouts or software)

by ERBOTxMa＠aol.com

Did you ever get an intelligent response to your inquiry noted below?? Am now looking for a replacement battery for the same. >From a previous life, I have a perfectly fine working UPS. The brand says "Inland - by ABI International". Model is "Probackup5000", part number is 19500. It has a DB9 serial port on the back for interfacing with a host to notify it of loss of ac, impending shutdown, etc. However, I don't have the software (for Windoze) that came with it. I've googled for hours, and can't come up with anything on this exact unit. Would anyone happen to have windows software for it? As a last resort, how standard is the DB9 pinout (IF I can find the pinout, no luck there either)... I'm wondering if I can use just about any UPS software for it. Any advice?

20 years, 1 month

IMSAI Score update/Spare BYTEs/Got an Altair too

by dave04a＠dunfield.com

>There are four "layers" to the IMSAI panel. More accurately, there are five layers, the four I just described, with the 5th one being the circuit board with LEDs and switches mounted etc. Regards. Dave -- dave04a (at) Dave Dunfield dunfield (dot) Firmware development services & tools: www.dunfield.com com Collector of vintage computing equipment: http://www.parse.com/~ddunfield/museum/index.html

20 years, 1 month

IMSAI Score update/Spare BYTEs/Got an Altair too

by dave04a＠dunfield.com

>>If I recall correctly, the "logo" is composed of two parts, one is a >>clear plastic sheet with black printing that gives the shape of all >>of the letters, switch and light legends, etc. Behind that, there >>should be a sheet of foil backed white paper. Those two sheets are >>sandwiched between a sheet of clear and red Plexiglas. Sounds like >>you are missing the white sheet. >I'll have to separate that part of the panel. What is the "white sheet" made >of? Would glossy white card stock work? Maybe it slipped down out of view of >the mask. There are four "layers" to the IMSAI panel. At the very front is a layer of clear plexiglass - for protection, and the outer layer of the "sandwich". Behind that is a thin layer of mylar, which is entirely coated in black, except for the panel lettering which is clear (ie: "reverse video"), and clear rectangles where the LED's show through. Behind that is a piece of material which is white on the front, and foil coated on the back. In the rectangles where the LEDs show through, there is nothing. The rearmost layer is a sheet of red plexiglass. The LEDs show through the red plexiglas, though the holes in the white/foil piece, though the clear rectangles in the mylar and through the clear front piece - the red plexiglas in the read give them a nice obscured/deep-red background. The panel lettering is the white side of the white/foil piece which is visible through the clear lettering in the mylar, and the clear front panel. This piece would not "Drop" or shift because it has 8 screw holes through it and is held in place by the other pieces and the screws, and also because if it could, it would hit the panel switches. It would not make sense (although possible) to remove the white/foil piece, since this would render ALL front panel lettering invisible, and would also allow the LEDs to be visible at angles when they should not (when looking through the lettering for example). I think it more likely that the white part behind the IMSAI 8080 has been removed or covered. It may be as simple as removing a piece of black paper >from behind the IMSAI 8080 logo - If necessary, you may have to cut a piece of white paper to fit in this space. The worse case scenario would be if the former owner used a black marker to color the IMSAI 8080 clear letters from the rear of the panel... This might also be repairable, but be very careful not to remove the intentionally black parts. Regards, Dave -- dave04a (at) Dave Dunfield dunfield (dot) Firmware development services & tools: www.dunfield.com com Collector of vintage computing equipment: http://www.parse.com/~ddunfield/museum/index.html

20 years, 1 month

IMSAI Score update/Spare BYTEs/Got an Altair too

by Richard.Cini＠wachovia.com

I'll have to separate that part of the panel. What is the "white sheet" made of? Would glossy white card stock work? Maybe it slipped down out of view of the mask. -----Original Message----- From: cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Bill Sudbrink Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 11:34 AM To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts Subject: RE: IMSAI Score update/Spare BYTEs/Got an Altair too > I've never seen an IMSAI before in-person. The front panel does > not have the white "IMSAI 8080" logo. You can see a silhouette > of it under the Plexiglas mask. Does the logo light-up when turned > on? Maybe this is a replacement mask (although the screws do not > appear to be disturbed)? If I recall correctly, the "logo" is composed of two parts, one is a clear plastic sheet with black printing that gives the shape of all of the letters, switch and light legends, etc. Behind that, there should be a sheet of foil backed white paper. Those two sheets are sandwiched between a sheet of clear and red Plexiglas. Sounds like you are missing the white sheet. Bill

20 years, 1 month

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test-drb June 2005