This is round 5/16" dia mic with felt screen stuck over the small
opening.
Now mic working intermittently and had to tap even bang on it to
wake up.
Now today, I'm planning to combine my mic search with downtown
shopping, will these mic robbed from cheap headphone with mic with
1/8" jack work?
Cheers, Wizard
I have a Texas Instruments 980A with all the flashing lights and switches, hard disk drive and all
I am trying to find a Museum or Individual that would like it
Can you help?
Phillip J. Stensgaard
1123 Fairview Ave
South Pasadena, CA 91030
(626)441-1542
gramp at dslextreme.com
Hi all
Ben Woodelf said :
>Blars Blarson wrote:
>
> > Are you interested in a couple of Frank Hogg Labs systems os9/68k
> > systems? One 68000, one 68020. Located in Los Angeles.
>
>PS. Shipping to Canada is the other factor.
And here I'm sitting wondering what shipping to South Africa
would cost...Canada? Sheesh, you guys are right around the
corner from one another *grin*
W
(Yea, yea, I know, it's a beeeg country...)
Barry Watzman wrote:
On cleaning "copper" contacts (which may be gold plated): I would first try
using a "magic rub" pencil eraser, rubbing it over the contacts. It is very
important to use this specific brand, "Magic Rub", it's non-abrasive. These
are popular and common and this brand of eraser is carried at all office
supply stores (OfficeMax, Staples, Office Depot, etc.)
On sanding plastic, DON'T. Instead use automotive rubbing or polishing
compound and rub/buff with a soft cloth. (if you are going to paint, rubbing
compound is the coarser product). It's possible these will leave a finish so
smooth that you no longer need/want to paint.
I am not familiar with the "magic rub" pencil eraser. Most pencil or
so-called rubber erasers have a high sulpher content. They are especially
hard on silver and copper. I've tried them on copper contacts and watched
the color go from shiny new penny to forest green in a few days.
If the connector is gold plated, you should not need to clean them. If you
are having green, then the gold is a very thin plate, or an amalgam of
copper and gold ( and possibly other metals) Have you tried a dremel tool
with a dry polishing wheel - no solvent or compound? Use it lightly. This
has worked wonders for me though it does take patience.
I agree with Barry on the plastic. I would add to never use power equipment
when sanding plastic. It always leaves a pattern that almost impossible to
get rid off. A little elbow grease and lots of patience. Most rubbing
compound is very coarse so run a test on a hidden surface before using.
I've also used some astronomers grinding grits in water. These come in
extremely fine grits and won't leave visible scratches. Used to buy them
through Edmond or Fisher Scientific.
Billy
On Oct 3 2005, 22:24, Jules Richardson wrote:
>
> I have no idea exactly what model (could LCII screens be used with
> anything other than an LCII?), but we have more Apple hardware than
we
> need right now
I have hardware (most notably a Mac Plus with a matching external hard
drive) but not a key piece of software: Aldus Pagemaker from around
1985/86 (ie one of the earliest versions). Has anybody got a copy they
could donate or lend?
The reason I ask is that I'm involved in an exhibition in Computer
Science at the University of York, to run for the University's Open Day
this Friday, and also to support a series of "hardware tours" for the
first year students starting on Monday (these guided tours are a
scheduled part of each tutorial group's activities in the first week of
term, and are compulsory for each new student). The idea is to show
students what real hardware looks like, in support of the Introduction
to Computer Systems course, which deals with architectures and systems
at an introductory level. Since modern PC hardware isn't very
interesting or especially educational to look at, someone had the
bright idea of showing classic hardware and its innards, and I got
roped in.
Anyway, amongst the PDP-8, PDP-11s, SGIs and Suns, KIM-1, and a bunch
of other things, there's a Mac Plus beside a loop of the 1984 promo
film, and I wanted to show Pagemaker on it, as being the "killer app".
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
All,
mea culpa, didn't teach the kids about backups before trying
to teach them Pascal on my Mac Plus. Sigh.
Broken component is the hard drive from a La Cie Tsunami
external enclosure. Drive is a Quantum Prodrive LPS, 240 MB capacity,
part number (I think) GN24S012 Rev 05-J. Drive failed while in use,
so it's not termination; another hard drive (Seagate ST31230N) in the
same enclosure appears to format OK (that's as far as I've gotten to
date), so I don't think it's the SCSI interface in the Mac Plus or
the Tsunami power supply. (Despite one inadvertent 120V discharge to
the anti-static on the inside of the Tsunami case!)
Drive no longer appears as a boot drive on the Mac Plus SCSI
chain, nor as a boot drive to a Mac II, nor as an accessible drive to
either the Plus or a Powerbook 3400. Another drive (Apple CD 300)
placed downstream of it (and termination rearranged appropriately)
*does* appear to the 3400, so that's another data point that it's the
Quantum that's broken and not the enclosure or the SCSI
cabling/termination.
Drive *does* make spinning-up and head-seeking noises (once
per power-up). LED indicating drive attention does flash, *once*, as
computer boots up. 5V and 12V supplies to drive look OK to my old
analog multimeter.
When running with case open and parts spread out (now more
carefully insulated), one chip on the Quantum controller board gets
pretty hot pretty fast. That chip is marked 2J4 HA13476 and
has a couple of "wings" in place of the middle 4 or so legs that
would normally be on either side of a regular DIP package.
I haven't gotten an ESR meter yet (I *really* need one of
those), and have not attempted to survey for bad caps on the Quantum
controller board.
Questions:
1) Is the HA13476 expected to be pretty warm in use?
2) What is an HA13476? Is it unobtanium, or replaceable by someone of
my meager soldering skill?
3) Anyone have a matching drive that I could get at reasonably low
cost to try exchanging controller boards?
4) Any suggestions for further trouble-shooting and/or repairing?
I'm proceeding with the Seagate, and will restore from my
last backups, but I know I won't get the kids' Pascal code, so I'd
like to try to get this HDA running again if at all possible. (Plus
there's the nostalgia factor - this was our main home system until
1997 or so, long enough that people were making fun of us about it.)
(And yes, our current main home system is *almost* on topic. It's the
3400 referred to above.)
I'm reading classiccomp on digest, and have an hellacious
travel schedule through next February, so my responses will be
sporadic at best. Apologies in advance for that, but any advice is
well appreciated!
--
- Mark
210-522-6025, temporary cell 240-375-2995
Hi
I recommend removing the oxides as non-abrasively
as you can. Try the eraser trick but for stubborn
oxides, I often use a stiff piece of wood, like
a popsicle stick and water. The oxide itself can
be abrasive so make sure the rinse the loose stuff
off.
The green oxide can be from copper or nickel.
Once you have the surface clean and dry, use a little
of the DC#4 to coat and protect it from future corrosion.
( See earlier post on subject of DC#4 )
Dwight
>From: "Martin Scott Goldberg" <wgungfu at csd.uwm.edu>
>
>>>My concern is I don't want to use any sort of cleaner that will harm
>>>whatever material the surrounding pcb is made of (as it appears to be made
>>>out of an older, thicker material than most modern PCB's I see).
>>
>>If the underlying material is copper, why not one of the ion-exchange instant
silverplate solutions like Cool-Amp or Caswell Silverplater? They deposit a
very (one molecule) thin layer of silver that might do the trick for a
restoration. Caswell also m
>arkets brush-plating electrolytic silver (and nickel, gold and a whole bunch of
other metals) kits if you'd like something more substantial..
(http://www.caswellplating.com).
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Chuck
>>
>
>The exposed copper doesn't look to be underlying.
>
>Well, here's a pic of what the cart and connector normally looks like -
>
>http://www.pong-story.com/pics/odyssey/cart7.jpg
>http://www.pong-story.com/pics/odyssey/carts.jpg
>
>As you can see, the PCB is much thicker than a standard PCB of today. I'm
>assuming its made of a different material then (which is why I'm hoping
>people on here in to mini's and such from that period of around 1972 would
>be familiar).
>
>The contacts themselves are what are tarnishing and turning green, some
>with white deposits.
>
>Marty
>
