I used to work for a company that repaired and
refurbished monitors.
What we used to do was use SoftScrub with bleach on
the yellowed plastics, and once cleaned as best we
could...
Hit the pieces with Armor-All.
That combination did a good job of making the plastic
whiter, and restored a shine to it.
I also think Armor all has chemicals in it that help
protect the plastic from the Sun.
Give that a try...
(I also use spray cleaner with bleach to get into the crevices.)
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>
I'd like to get it up and running again but I can't get any of the
backups back on a "fresh" ESDI drive (the original died).
--
Have you formatted the drive with the stand-alone formatter?
Dan, I'll forward your message to the Classic Computer Collector
mailing list at http://www.classiccmp.org/cctalk.html . There are
many people there who might be able to help.
- John
At 07:39 AM 8/4/2004, "Dan Chambers" <dchambers(a)shapemastertool.com> wrote:
>To Whom It May Concern:
> I have a PDP-8 that’s down and about all I’m good for is swapping boards. Do you know anything about these systems or do you know anyone who would. I need to get mine repaired.
>Thanks,
>
>
>Dan Chambers
>Technical Support and Tooling Engineer
>Plant 888-PCD-PCBN (723-7226)
>Cell 815-766-0775
>Fax 815-522-6229
>
Here's what I do:
1.. For stuff in fairly good shape I use Simple Green and a Black and
Decker "Scum Buster" rotary brush that uses the B&D rechargeabe batteries. I
use the soft brush attachment. I usually remove the case and take it out in
the driveway with a hose. If it is really yellowed I use Purple Power this
will remove some , but not all of the yellowing, but it can stain metal so
be careful. Simple Green is safe and works great for dirt and grime.
2.. For magic marker and stickers I use Goo be Gone and elbow grease.
3.. To finish things off I use automobile protectant
Looks alot better after that.
I've come across this adapter in my junk box...
http://www.irrelevant.com/rob/adapter.jpg (37Kb)
It's a 5 pin DIN socket, to an RJ11 + lead with a single large pin with a
slot in it.
I /think/ it was for a Wyse AT computer to allow the use of a standard PC
AT Keyboard, but don't quote me on that.
There is a part number on the moulding of the DIN - 940398-02 REV. A - but
googling shows nothing.
If anybody wants it, it's theirs for free; just cover the postage.
Talking of Wyse ... I have two Wyse 120 terminals, a Wyse 30+, and another
serial terminal I can't remember the brand of - (not a major one, and has
reseller's name on the front) - all free to anybody who wants to come
collect from Salford, UK.
Rob
A friend is seeking information on a DRAM chip found in Nintendo game
carthridges. The ID is:
LH2833-15
SHARP Japan
8652 1D
Does anyone have the data sheet? Looks like 1986ish.
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ]
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>Searching around for a PC [or compatible] that NEEDS a Torx................
I have a few Compaq computers that used Torx screws.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
I've got a spare MacPlus Case Cracker i'd part with...
Send me a private e-mail if you're interested.
> From: Gene Buckle <geneb(a)deltasoft.com>
> I've got the Torx tool, I need the gadget that's
> used to split the case without destroying it in
> the process.
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RE: Drive Alignment
8" drives are usually pretty stable once aligned, but perhaps not over a
period of decades.
There are two ways to check/set alignment.
The "classical" (mid-70's) way is to use an analog alignment diskette and a
dual-channel oscilloscope. You connect the scope to two channels of the
read head amplifier and seek to the alignment track of the disk (my
recollection is track 38 decimal, the center of the 77-track diskette). You
should see a kind of "filled in dual sine wave". If it's symmetrical or
close, the alignment is correct. If one lobe (every other one) is of
significantly greater amplitude than the lobes in between, you are out of
alignment and you adjust the position of the head to get it right (this part
varies from drive to drive). Then you have to check some other things, like
the track 0 sensor and track 0 phase (on some drives). You need the analogy
alignment disk, a scope and an "exerciser", or a computer with software that
could let you manually seek and load the head as desired.
The "modern" (about 1981) way was with a digital alignment diskette. This
was a normal data disk, almost, but various tracks on the diskette were
either correctly aligned, or intentionally mis-aligned by varying known
amounts. By seeing which tracks could be read, and which could not, you
could determine the alignment status of the drive. This was useful for
checking alignment, but not nearly as good for setting it. SOME of these
disks ALSO had the analog patter on track 38. You needed the digital
alignment disk and software that knew what to do with it.
The problem today is that the alignment disks (of either type) are not
readily available, and most PC hobbyists don't have a scope. Documentation,
knowledge and experience are also issues.
Hiya,
has anyone got a early copy of the SCSI spec which just covers SCSI 1
(i.e. 8bit bus, 5Mb/s transfers only)?
I want to see if I can get the parallel port on a modern PC hooked up to
one of the old SCSI/ST506 bridge boards that I have, but given that I
only have 12 data out lines to play with and 5 data in (13 in if I
assume a bidirectional port) things are pretty tight and I obviously
need to do some loading of stuff into external registers.
I've got some reasonable info on the SCSI protocol, but having a better
idea of which signals do what (and at what time) would be useful.
All the docs out on the web seem to be for the latest SCSI revision
though (and therefore contain a lot of info that I don't need).
Furthermore I only really need the low-level protocol now;
software-driven higher level command structure can wait for a few days!
cheers
Jules
