This is what I have and will be selling in the near future. Two sol-20's
both working perfectly in original condition. One is fully loaded with
everything you could get from the factory(64k, networking board, ect). The
other has either 4k or 16k (?) it acted as the others slave and does not
have all the boards. Both have original monitors. I have all the
documentation from the manuals to copy's of receipts, and original software
(cp/m, cbasic). A micropolis 1054 5 inch 4 stack of drives which I still
need to test just to be sure it still works( I cannot even find a reference
to them on the online). And one decwriter with the form feed option and a
built in keyboard. So you could network all this stuff and have three
separate inputs (it is pretty cool). I have not decided how to auction them
off yet (as a collection or individually). Any who that's what I got so
tell me what you think if any one wants a preemptive bid let me know.
thanks
nIcK
nickpug(a)hotmail.com
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Hi
The problem is that they are the best for some applications.
The board space to use electrolytics is prohibitive. Even
electrolytics can be an issue. There was the formula snafu
a couple years ago for the electrolyte.
I always replace old tantalums with similar looking ones.
I just expect them to fail and don't otherwise worry about it.
Most regulators can handle a few minutes of short.
Dwight
>From: msokolov(a)ivan.harhan.org
>
>So here is my question then: if not tantalum, then what?
>
>I've always been told that aluminum electrolytic caps were cheap stuff that
>doesn't last and that tantalum caps are much better and (that was the claim)
>eternal. So I guess this is wrong. What is the truth then? Is it the other
>way around? Or are they both bad? And why are so many people, including on
>this list, saying "aluminum electrolytics are cheap crap, use tantalum"?
>
>And what are the *good* caps to use?
>
>MS
>
Sorry everyone, it's Friday, and my mind isn't on focused on work at all.
I thought I'd share something I found humorous. I just got a recall notice
and replacement battery for my Kyocera phone. In the letter that
accompanied the new battery, written by a Kyocera attorney, it was said that
there was little risk of a widespread problem, and only a few people had
been affected by the (I quote) "rapid disassembly" of the device, and of
those, only one person had received second degree burns, and property damage
in other cases was minor.
"Rapid disassembly" ??? As if angry little gnomes in the battery wake up
and start taking it apart and throwing pieces around (flaming pieces, I'd
assume, given that burns and property damage resulted)? I assume he meant
it can *explode*, or is that a "forceful rapid disassembly" (and therefore
something entirely different).
Anyway, whatever you do, don't let those gnomes into your classic computers.
I can only assume those of you with caps that have given in to rapid
disassembly (or perhaps even forceful rapid disassembly, or worse, sudden
intense warming accompanied by forceful rapid disassembly and ensuing
off-gassing of combustion by-products) let those gnomes get in there.
Have a great weekend, all... --Patrick :o)
Dear John
I?m try to find information on DEC memory M7551 5017547-01-D1-P2.
Do you have it.
If so please can you provide me a copy?
Many thanks
Wilson Barbosa
A Brazilian user of OLD lsi-11/73.
Thanks
My empire for a cable!
I need a male DC-37 to female DC-37.
Blast you, IOmega!
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
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Anyone seen a TU58 read off the end of the reel?
I replaced the capstan rollers in my TU58 today and tried to boot an VAX
730. It buzzed in reverse for about 5 seconds and then stopped. So
naturally I tried again. And again. And again. (hey, if one aspirin is
good, then 15 must be *really* good :-)
Needless to say, it eventually read past EOF and the tape came off the
takeup reel. Heh. There seems to be no EOT detection on these little
drives.
My guess is something is bad in my TU58 or it's not reading the tape
properly (no doubt it can read backwards and is looking for some sort of
block marker - yes?)
Any hints? I've never booted a 730 before.
(long ago I booted a 750 many times but I don't recall how it went - it
"just worked" :-) And well, 780's - that was much more fun with all that
clicking of the floppy drive :-)
-brad
I think it's a bit presumptuous to say that it
would be impossible to re-wire a PDP-7, especially since someone or
something (was it done in an automated fashion at the factory?) had to do
it to begin with.
--
I'm in a betting mood...
I will wager $1000 USD that this machine won't be operational (running all
existing diagnostics or at least the CPU/memory/DECtape tests) by this time
next year.
FWIW the wire wrap bit and unwrapper is larger than the std #28/#30 since
the pins on first generation flip chips were rectangular.