Teo Zenios <teoz(a)neo.rr.com> wrote:
> I have yet to see an consumer OS that did not crash [...]
"Consumer OS" is an oxymoron that constitutes the very root of the problem.
There should be NO such thing as a "consumer OS". No consumer should
ever be given a computer or an OS. Or for that matter, there should be
no consumers at all. Two-leggeds living their lives as consumers are
unworthy of life and are not even human since the true purpose of human
life is to produce and contribute, rather than consume, eat, shit, sleep,
fuck and pollute the environment with SUVs. Consumer societies like the
modern Western world are a cancerous tumor on the body of Mother Earth
that needs to be cut out (a few strategic nukes would be nice) to save
the planet.
-MS, Communist and believer in rule by the workers, noting that
worker == producer. Workers of the world, unite to overthrow and
annihilate the consumer society and replace it with a producer society!
On Nov 18 2004, 16:52, Tore S Bekkedal wrote:
> Brilliant! That is extremely useful general-purpose information. I
also
> happen to have what in Norwegian is called isopropanol, I can only
> assume that they are the same?
Yes, same thing.
> Again, thank you, that info will come in handy.
>
> I have some insanely dirty SGI KB's I got recently, too.
Unless something like salt water, red wine (Mateus Ros? is bad too, one
of my friends discovered), etc has got in, there's an easier and less
dramatic way to clean them.
Usually the dirt is (1) general dirt on the keys, (2) biscuit crumbs,
paper clips, hair, etc, under and in between the keytops, and (3)
general dirt anddiscoloration of the case and cable. Take off the
keytops (you can get a little puller to make this easier, but if you
take the cover off the keyboard you can do it with your fingers). Use
a vacuum cleaner and a small paint brush to remove the crud around the
keys. Clean the cable with a small amount of white spirit on a paper
kitchen towel, and finsh off with a dry towel (optionally add a very
small amount of furniture polish). Clean the case with a damp cloth
and detergent or kitchen-surface cleaner (don't forget to rinse it
off!).
I use one of two methods to clean the keycaps, depending on how many I
do at once.
One way is to dunk them in a small washing-up basin (or a large kitchen
bowl) with some mild detergent (I use Flash, which is a non-foaming and
fairly gentle floor cleaner) and swish them around for a while, then
pour out the liquid, dump the keycaps into a towel, and dry them off.
If I do it that way, I often spray a little (very little) Mr Sheen
(liquid furniture polish) onto the wet keycaps just before I dry them;
it leaves an almost imperceptible coating of wax that prevents them
getting dirty again so quickly.
The other way is to put them into a pillowcase, tie the open end off so
they can't escape, and sling the pillowcase in the (clothes) washing
machine. Dry in the tumble drier (still in the pillowcase), with your
preferred fabric conditioner (same effect as the Mr Sheen above). You
can get brownie points from She Who Must Be Obeyed by doing this as
part of a small load of the regular laundry :-)
Liz, of course, is used to finding sprayed-painted metallic parts
curing in the oven, pillowcases rattling quietly in the tumble drier,
and circuit boards in the dishwasher (don't use the hot drying cycle,
dry using IPA and compressed air).
That's got me looking at the five keyboard around me. Yuk. Time to
find that pillowcase, I fear, at least for three of them :-(
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Hi
The Sun keyboards would need to be disassembled if they have
water on them. These are made of multiple layers of flexible
pcb. One might dry for a month and not get it dry. Just
a few hours with the layers wet will cause traces to be rotted
away ( from experience ).
Dwight
>From: james <james(a)jdfogg.com>
>
>> How rugged is this KB? Will it take water, and relatively hot water
>> too?
>
>Any keyboard will take boiling water, at least on the circuitry. During
>manufacture circuit boards are washed after wave soldering in a 200
>degree spray (ph isn't neutral, but I don't remember which way it
>swings).
>
>The only concern is the plastics.
>
>I've washed all my keyboards (incl Sun) in dishwashers on regular cycle
>with a little detergent (NOT Cascade or other powder detergents that
>contain sand - use liquid). I don't recommend using the drying cycle.
>The trick is to chase the water afterwards and I use isopropynol
>(rubbing alcohol) to do that. Isopropynol binds to water and will take
>it away as it flows off the board.
>
>Follow with a hair dryer and a day or two in the sun.
>
>This also works for rescuing electronics that have been dropped in
>lakes/oceans if you get to them quickly.
>
>
Anyone bidding on this ?. It's up to ?162
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1247&item=51387351…
If you check out his other auctions he has an 8" drive for an altair
machine as well.
Nothing to do with the seller although I have bought a few things frim
him. I got the 380z from him.
Dan
At 13:25 18/11/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Bert Thomas wrote:
>
>> I've read in the past that Tony called someone a whimp cause he said he
>> didn't dare to reverse engineer a 4 layer board or something like that. I
>> wonder, if _that_ is easy, how does one solve problems like traces that
>> run under components? If its a simple and cheap component, it could be
>> removed and replaced later.
>>
>
>When I traced out the circuit diagram for my Ensoniq Mirage sampler's
>ailing analogue section, I just measured the DC resistance between two
>points and guessed. With a bit of thought, you can usually judge what
>makes sense to be connected to what.
A technique that I've used out of desperation when trying to track a few
signals through a multi-layer board where I had "no idea" where they came
out, is to cut a square of aluminum foil - size depends on board size and
how "fine" you want to be - press it onto regions of the board using a
pad or sponge to insure it presses down on all connections (obviously you
do this with the power off, board disconnected and any nicads/supercaps
removed etc.) - this lets you test conductance from the original signal
to whole areas of the board.. Once you narrow down the area where the
signal appears, it is much easier to find it.
Whole pile of caveats and warnings about shorting components which may
still be charged, passing current from DVM through unknown paths through
the circuitry etc. will no doubt be forthcoming - just be careful and
aware of what you are doing - YMMV, but it has worked for me on more than
one occation.
Regards,
Dave
--
dave04a (at) Dave Dunfield
dunfield (dot) Firmware development services & tools: www.dunfield.com
com Vintage computing equipment collector.
http://www.parse.com/~ddunfield/museum/index.html
> It's in excellent cosmetic condition. I powered it up
You really should learn the basics about applying power to
electronic gear that has been off for some unknown period
of time.
It is an INCREDIBLY BAD idea to just go into a room full of
old computers and just randomly start applying power to equipment
in unknown condition. At an absolute minimum, you should check
the condition of the power supplies.
Hi Joe,
>One of the things that I noticed was that the computer kept running and
>even though I turned >off the power switch the cap kept sizzling.
On the 2113 (and I guess from your description the 2117) the capacitor is
directly across the terminals on the mains input socket - i.e. on the
'always hot' side of the on/off switch. So turning the power off behind the
front panel of the computer won't help.
In order to effectively control interference the capacitor has to be mounted
as close to the point at which mains enters the equipment enclosure as
possible. Mounting it further away causes the input leads to act like an
antenna inside the enclosure.
>I had to unplug the line cord to stop it.
Yep, this is the only way to shut the power off to this capacitor, it is
always live when the equipment is plugged into a live mains socket.
A good reason NOT to leave this sort of equipment plugged in but turned off!
Peter Brown
Hi Bob and Jay,
Thanks for replying to my post. I now have a pile of schematics to try to
understand!
Bob: Thanks for the info on the -2 volt rail - I'm not going to be running
any 2116 hardware so I guess I should be OK.
I'm still intrigued as to why my rail should be out of spec (the service
manual is pretty precise about the rail limits). If any one has access to
the schematic for the standard power supply for the 2113B (i.e. without the
battery back up option) then I'd be very interested in getting hold of a
copy.
Cheers
Peter Brown
