test-drb March 2003

test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org

314 participants
633 discussions

by ejchapel＠attbi.com

>re: RS/6000 Console Help Pinout info can be found here: http://www.mort.level5.net/johnr/howto/aixhow.htm#hardware1 Hope this helps...

21 years, 4 months

Workslate

by rhudson＠cnonline.net

I have a workslate, workslate pen plotter, Several bits of software on the minicassettes the workslated uses. Who wants it? Whatcha got to trade? Anybody got a Poly 88 5 board working S100 bus computer? Atari Portfolio? Any HP handheld (hp 35, hp 67, hp 97, hp41, hp 71, hp 75) just because it's not on the list doesn't mean I am not interested in it. Wanna trade?

21 years, 4 months

Seagate ST-125

by pete＠dunnington.u-net.com

On Mar 17, 18:42, Stan Barr wrote: > The Wanderer <quapla(a)xs4all.nl> said: > > > A small question, can a Seagate ST-125 be used as a replacement for a RD5x? > I'd like to know too... > > Some info I got on using 3rd-party disks says the following: > > "These are the "successes" all done on PDP-11's with the > ZRQCH0 formatter: > . > . > . > (5) Seagate ST-125 (20 MB 3.5" HH): This one is basically a "no > brainer" -- the drive has the same geometry as the RD-31, > and will format as such." There are basically three ways to get an ST412-like disk to work on an RQDXx controller. The easiest is obviously to use a real (or exact equivalent to) RD5x or RD3x disk, and format it as such. A second way is to use ZRQCH? in the mode that lets you specify the type, and format a disk which is slightly bigger (more tracks and/or more heads), as if it were one of the supported types. That only works for an RQDX3 with late(ish) ROMs. A variation on this for an RQDX1 is to use really old ROMs and a disk that behaves sufficiently like an RD51 or RD52 (eg has the right number of cylinders). Not all disks work, and they may stop working if you substitute later ROMs (real RD51/52 disks are OK, the firware recognises them and updates the format). The reason is that the firmware in the RQDX1/2 recognises disk geometries by probing, by playing tricks with the disks. The earliest version of the firmware had only very simple tests, and could be fooled (I used to use a Rodime 3.5" drive on my RQDX1), but later firware has more tests (and six or eight disk types) and if it doesn't recognise the disk, it won't play. I once exchanged some email with the guy at DEC who wrote those routines so I have some what they do, but no details. The third method is to use ZRQCH? or ZRQCG? in the mode that asks all the relevant questions about geometry and disk type. This only works for RQDX3s, but if you can work out what all the RCTs, ZBNs and other TLAs mean, and know how to work out all the numbers required, you can format anything and call it RDanything. And later versions of DEC OSs will be perfectly happy. The problem is knowing how to work out the answers. I did it once, and Tim Shoppa (IIRC) has also done it, but as far as I know, the full information isn't published anywhere. If you want to try this, I can look out my notes about the TLAs and how to work out the type numbers, and look up the manuals to see how to get ZRQC?? into the right mode (I recall that different versions were slighly different, if you see what I mean). -- Pete Peter Turnbull Network Manager University of York

21 years, 4 months

Free M68K SBC boards.

by tponsford＠theriver.com

Hi All, I picked up a huge crate o' stuff at the local cactus U auction a few weeks ago. Among a lot of other stuff were several boxes of older computer boards One of the boxes contained about 15 or 20 boards, about 12x12", two fingers, that were either 68k processor boards, DV11, 512k Momory boards (yes, they say right on them...momory) Most were in static bags that labeled them as Toshiba TDF 500A, Other boards were 8" and 5" or floppy drive controller boards. A lot of the descriptions/info were handwtitten in Japanese. They all seem to be in very good condition, save one, which had the chips removed, and put in a seperate box. I did a quick google search for Toshiba TDF500A, but didn't turn up anything! Any information on them (besides telling me that they are 68k SBC) would be helpful. I plan on keeping a set. (although I'm a Qbus/Unibus guy myself) But the rest are free for the taking. I will ship if you pick up the shipping/packing charges. Cheers Tom

21 years, 4 months

Soldering Irons Metcal

by glenslick＠hotmail.com

I picked up a used MX-500S on eBay and later a DS1 to go with it. I still need to pick up a compressor some day before I can use the DS1. What I don't have are any manuals nor can I find any online anywhere and it's not clear if Metcal or distributors sell copies of the manuals. It would be nice to have instructions for the DS1 before I need to use it the first time. I don't think I have all of the necessary filters and such. -Glen > > There is only one TRUE soldering iron. If you're serious about soldering >and surface mount, you want a Metcal. Don't get the SP-200 series, they're >junk. Used Metcals can be had on eBay. _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail

21 years, 4 months

Manual "Practical Microprocessors" HP 5036A Monitor ROM

by glenslick＠hotmail.com

By request, you can currently find source code for the HP 5036A Monitor ROM here: http://home1.gte.net/~gslick/5036a/5036A.HTML This source code was generated by unassembling the 5036A ROM and then adding the comments, labels, and symbols from the source listing in the manual. I have not had time yet to proof read all of the comments that I manually typed into the source from the manual, but I have verified that this source reassebles into binary code that matches the ROM. Appendex E of the manual contains notes on running the demo programs in the ROM {EHCO, ANDGT, CONV, WTM, SQRL, ORGAN, ROCT, STW, SNAKE}. When I have more time I will try to add that info. -Glen

21 years, 4 months

Penske is our friend!

by acme＠ao.net

From: (null) <vance(a)neurotica.com> Date: 03/17/2003 1:29 AM > Only if you try to get out of taxes. You don't have to register a > business if you don't want to incorporate it, but you still have to HUH??? I own and operate a small business in Orlando, and I can tell you I'd be dead in the water without a State Fictitious Name registration, as well as business licenses for Orange County and the City of Orlando. Even if you're running it from home, you have to have your papers in order or get fined out of existence . . . Later -- Glen 0/0

21 years, 4 months

Trouble with ASR33

by vcf＠siconic.com

I'm currently fighting with an ASR33 trying to make it perform a carriage return. Currently, the carriage is stuck all the way on the right side and refuses to budge. I tried to find something inside that would release it but I haven't located the magic tab. I've noticed something else. When I have the punch turned on, the '8' bit doesn't punch. For instance, if I hit "RETURN" I get the 1 + 4 + 128 bits punched, but no 8 (1 + 4 + 8 = 13). I don't see anything obvious, like a level that's come loose for example. I also lost the tab that holds the little plastic cover down over the reader mechanism. In trying to take the main cover off so I could look inside, I didn't notice the two screws on the front until after much wrangling, and just after the tab broke off and either fell or flew into oblivion. Whoever designed the ASR33 must have sold their soul to the devil to make it all work. It's amazing how intricate and delicate everything is, and how damn kludgy as well. I'm impressed, but not. -- Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org * Old computing resources for business and academia at www.VintageTech.com *

21 years, 4 months

HP9830 keyboard

by ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk

I am currently restoring an HP9830. I guess this is a classic computer (for all it says 'calcualtor' on the nameplate) because it runs BASIC, and is 30 years old! Repairing the electronic faults has not been a problem (boards of TTL -- yum...). It now powers up, runs programs, drives the 9866 printer sitting on top of it, saves/loads to cassette, and so on. I am now left with the keyboard which has 5 problems : 1) The 'Stop' keycap is missing, although the switch is complete and undamaged 2) The keycaps need cleaning 3) The power-on lamp on the front of the machine is burnt-out 4) The mains switch is broken 5) The plastic keyboard bezel (surround) was badly broken by the postal 'service'. I have most of the broken bits of plastic OK, solutions ... 1) My junk box supplied a keycap that will fit (without modifications), although it's too short and has the wrong label. It'll do for the moment until I cna find soemthing better (unless anyone here is mad enough to have stripped a 9830 for parts -- I hope not!) 2) Trivial to put right! 3) This is a wire-ended bulb, running off the 5V line through a 22 ohm resistor. I can get a 5V 60mA bulb -- as I don't want it to be particularly bright this should be fine. Does anyone know what the original bulb was, though. 4) This is more of a problem. The original switch is a DPDT rocker (and all 6 terminals are used -- the NC contacts connect to a 1M resistor used to discharge the mains filter when the machine is turned off). It mount with 2 screws onto the keyboard chassis. There is very little space in that area too. I don't want to modify the machine more than I have to, and I can't find a suitable switch in any of the catalogues. HP used the same switch on many devices in the 1970s -- the 9866 printer has an identical switch, so do the I/O expander and disk drives for my 9825. Anybody know of a source (I can provide more details, like dimensions, etc, if anyone thinks they can help)?. If all else fails, I'll replace the switch on one of my 9885 drives (where there's a lot more room) and use the switch removed from that drive in the 9830. 5) Any suggestions as to how to repair this? The plastic will stick with dichloromethane, but of course it's not very strong. I have heard of a technique of soaking a piece of cloth in said solvent and sticking it to the back of the plastic to strengthen it. Anyone ever tried this and have any tips? -tony

21 years, 4 months

SWTPC TV Typewriter II restoration

by glenslick＠hotmail.com

That brings back some memories. The first computer I had back when I was in the 7th grade was a KIM-1 that a friend of my father gave me. Eventually I bought an 8KB RAM expansion board and a SWTP terminal kit so I could run BASIC on the KIM-1. The SWTP terminal kit I had looked about the same as your pictures, except it included a full beige plastic case. The kit must not have been too difficult to put together since I don't remember having any problems getting it built and working. I later managed to blow something up on it once though when I somehow plugged one of the Molex connectors in backwards, but a local computer club member was able to repair the damage for me at the time. After a couple of years I traded the KIM-1 and the SWTP terminal in towards a brand new Apple II+. That's one trade I wish I never made. >Here are some links to my CT-1024 TV Typewriter II pages. >http://www.swtpc.com/mholley/CT_1024/CT1024_Index.htm >http://www.swtpc.com/mholley/CT_1024/Restore/CT1024_Restore.htm _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail

21 years, 4 months

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test-drb March 2003