I desperately need a copy (or original if you have one to sell/trade) of
the HP 1650A logic analyzer user's manual.
Can anyone help?
Thanks!
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
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I just signed up for the digest version of the list last week, and I've
started to get multiple (2 or even 3) copies of some of the digests.
Anybody else having this problem?
Bob
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On Oct 8, 21:24, Tony Duell wrote:
> I see... Since I intend to start out by linking the ACW to a couple
of
> other machines (one acting as a fileserver), all on the same bench, I
> assume I can get away with just about any cable :-)
Well, I'd not use tinsel cable or damp string (even with salt) but
apart from that...
> Actually, I am not sure the card in the Atom is a real Acorn one.
It's
> the same circuit, and the same layout, but the PCB is not
solder-masked.
> It may be a copy..
Possibly. HCCS made some, I think.
> > > The B+ (in the ACW) has PCB positions for the collision-detect
> > comparator
> > > chip, etc, but they're not fitted....
> >
> > It's worth doing.
>
> OK, I'll add them sometime. It's farily obvious what to do from the
> schematics (I have those). Will the software make use of the
collision
> detect circuitry, or do I need a particular version of the NFS ROM?
No, all the ROMs I know of can handle that.
> I wondered if you could do that... Alas I don't have the official
Acorn
> schematics for the clock and terminator, so while I can see the empty
> places for termination resistors on the clock PCB, and while I can
make a
> guess as to the values, I don't know if said guess is good. Do you
happen
> to have a parts list or schematic?
I have a schematic around here somewhere. [hunts through directories
on nearby machine] Ah, that one's for the passive (DIN plug) one:
A three-resistor divider chain, 1K0 at the top, 220R in the middle, 1K0
at the bottom, connected to ground (pin 2). Data+ (pin 1) goes to the
to of the 220R, Data- (pin 4) goes to the lower end. A pair of 56R
resistors goes from each of Clock+ (pin 3) and Clock- (pin 5) to the
top of the upper 1K0. A 10 uF electrolytic goes from the junction of
the 2 x 56R and upper 1K0, to ground.
Jules Richardson has my pile of paper schematics, and I think that's
where the other one is :-(
Oh, but of course I have the box itself. Here we are:
C1, C2: 10uF 10V
C3: 10nF ceramic
R1, R2: 56R
R3: 100R
R7: 470R
D1: OA47 (anything with a low Vf, eg a Schottky diode, should do)
IC3: LM7805
LED1: any old red LED (or you might want to change the colour for
the combined clock/terminator unit)
SK1: 5-pin 180deg PCB DIN socket
SK2: power jack
Fit wire links at LK1, LK2, LK3.
Do you needs the component values for the collision-detect circuitry as
well? I've got B and B+ diagrams here, which show them.
> Well, I am a great beleiver in proper termination (resistors are
cheap,
> my time in tracing bad signals isn't). So, for example, while I might
run
> a Unibus for testing with only one terminator (if it's just one
> backplane, say), any machine that I use will have a terminator at
each
> end. And I'll do the same with Econet.
I should hope so too! You'll see a difference if you remove a
terminator from an Econet of any useful size -- used to be a real
problem in scholls, if they used DIN-plug terminators (kids used to
"borrow" them).
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Does anyone have a pinout for the video connector on an HP9000/425? Or a list of compatible monitors(doesn't seem to be VGA unless the whole thing is dead)? Lucky me, I went to Wacky Willy's yesterday and found an Apollo keyboiard and mouse and an HP-IL mouse!
Another question that is a bit OT... Same WW visit I found a Fujitsu RA12 DSL modem. OK, it seems that it's for Verizon frame relays only, and I don't have a PS for it anyway. But trying to reverse engineer the thing I found a PS port pin labeled "PRW_GOOD". What does that mean? the rest of the unit wants +/-15v, 5v and 3.3v on various pins but it's probably going into a parts box, I'm just curious what it might be and what sort of signal it would be.
-JR
Hello,
I read a post you wrote on February 23rd, about the IBM pc/at technical reference, and was wondering if you still had your copy of it. When I called, according to IBM, the manual doesn't exist. Is there any way I can purchase a copy of it from you? If so, please contact me asap, as I am going crazy trying to find a copy of this book. If not, thank you anyway.
Thank you for your help and time,
Jay
> That sounds interesting, how is it oiled? I had thought about that
> before, and I couldn't imagine just dunking a roll of paper in oil, or
> spraying it with oil or something. How oily is paper tape anyway? I
> don't have any oiled tape, although I need to get some for my ASR33. I
> have been using strips of computer paper to test, but I am worried that
> the unoiled paper might wear down the punch. I thought about having a
> stack of junk fanfold greenbar cut into 1" strips on the big machine in
> at work, but since it wouldn't be oiled, I don't know if it would
> damage anything. Do you really _need_ oiled tape, or can you get by
> without it?
I odn't know how it's oiled (mist probably) but it's oily enoug that if
you leave it on a stack of paper, magazine, clothing, etc it leaves a
nasty stain the next morning.
Haven't touched the horrid stuff in a decade or two but I bet it
ozidizes faster.
Unless you're punching out the assembly source to your FORTRAN compiler
or something I doubt you'll wear out you punch with casual use of dry
tape. You might try running a manually oiled foot or two of tape (punch
RUBOUTs) once in a while to manually oil it. Just a guess.
Chadless 5-level oiled tape is the most 'fun'. Instead of holes it
punches little toilet-seat-shaped "U"s. Umm not so good for optical
readers, but fine for mechanical readers what stick a little rob up the
hole to read. I have an article about different types of readers talka
about readers that blow air through the holes, detected with a little
'sail' on a microswitch, and running the chadless tape over a corner to
tilt out the flaps for optical reading. Sheesh, why bother.
Rather than post the stuff here, a link to the things I'll be selling at
VCF is at:
http://www.rain.org/~marvin/vcf.txt
As the week goes by, I'll be adding to the list and updating it as
necessary.
I don't know why everyone's so hot to buy old oxidized crumbly tape when
you can buy it BRAND NEW MANUFACTURE from www.westnc.com for cheaper...
mylar too (not cheap).
* Mylar is shiny and strong. You can (almost) tow a car with it.
* Paper is, well, paper. It rips.
* Except when it's not: there are paper-mylar-paper hybrid tapes, which
were once popular; it handles like paper but is much tougher. In the URL
below, the larger picture on the left is hybrid tape.
* There are oiled paper tapes, but those were mostly for mechanical
systems.
Most "modern" punches handle mylar. ASR33's and the like do NOT, they
like oiled paper.
Many really-low-cost readers, like from the early hobby computer era,
prefer black tape, since the cheaper reader heads needed 100% contrast
(and yellow tape passes yellow->IR (incandescent) light).
http://wps.com/projects/paper-tape/index.html
PS: A quick check of WestNC's website shows skyrocketing prices! I think
they are phasing it out... maybe I should stockpile more...
http://www.westnc.com/paptape.html]
I don't know why everyone's so hot to buy old oxidized crumbly tape when
you can buy it BRAND NEW MANUFACTURE from www.westnc.com for cheaper...
mylar too (not cheap).
* Mylar is shiny and strong. You can (almost) tow a car with it.
* Paper is, well, paper. It rips.
* Except when it's not: there are paper-mylar-paper hybrid tapes, which
were once popular; it handles like paper but is much tougher. In the URL
below, the larger picture on the left is hybrid tape.
* There are oiled paper tapes, but those were mostly for mechanical
systems.
Most "modern" punches handle mylar. ASR33's and the like do NOT, they
like oiled paper.
Many really-low-cost readers, like from the early hobby computer era,
prefer black tape, since the cheaper reader heads needed 100% contrast
(and yellow tape passes yellow->IR (incandescent) light).
http://wps.com/projects/paper-tape/index.html
PS: A quick check of WestNC's website shows skyrocketing prices! I think
they are phasing it out... maybe I should stockpile more...
http://www.westnc.com/paptape.html]
