How do I get disk images for my C64 from the internet?
Following equipment available:
Apple ibook
usb-> serial port
usb 3 1/4 diskette drive
commodore 64
1541 disk drive
Is there a community of people sharing disks? Preferably physical
disks, perhaps via post (snailmail)?
Company that sells old commodore software?
Thanks...
ron.
>From: "Jeffrey H. Ingber" <jingber(a)ix.netcom.com>
>
>On Fri, 2002-12-06 at 18:31, Dwight K. Elvey wrote:
>> Hi Jeff
>> This is a manual tool and takes a little practice.
>> You need to first start by stripping about .75 to 1 inch of
>> insulation from the end of the wire. There is a built
>
>Thanks to everyone who provided links. After a few tries I've got it
>figured out =).
>
>I ordered a roll of wire which has a built-in stripper which makes nice
>1" cuts. Pretty easy process, but I find the slit in the tool to be
>annoying, as the wire would continually get caught in it. What is the
>purpose of this? I assume it's to allow you to remove broken wire from
>the tool easily? I just kept a finger over the slit and eventually was
>able to get some good wraps.
>
>If I had to do this more often I would probably spring for a better
>tool, but for a once (or twice-off) this seems to do the job.
>
>Thanks!
>Jeff
Hi
Like any skill, it takes practice. You want to feed the
free end of the wire through the side that doesn't have
the stripper on it. You then push the wire into the
groove with a finger nail. If done correctly, you won't
have a bend in the wire at the stripper and the wire
will not break when you strip it.
You'll find that the spool/stripper unit have the same
problem. The only strippers I've ever found that worked
well on wire wrap were those ones that looked like
small pliers and had white plastic shells that would
guide the wire onto stripper blades. I'm not sure who
sells these as they were units I picked up at a surplus
store.
As for power wrappers. These require some skill to use
as well. With these, one can make a larger mess quicker
than using a manual tool. It is all about practice and
timing. I've used professional electric and air powered
wrapping tools. I also have one of those cheap battery
powered ones at home. With a little practice, I find
that I can do just as good a job with any of them.
I've done larger projects. One needs to plan out the
flow of how you are going to place the wires. Two level
wire wrapping takes planning. Three level is a little
more forgiving but it is easy to bend the pins and cause
shorts.
Dwight
>
>
>> in stripper. Look at the spring steel part in the center
>> of the tool. It has a slit in it that you slide the
>> wire in and then pull the wire from the other side.
>> Now that you have the end, thread the wire from the
>> end, under the small sleeve and along the groove at the
>> side of the shaft. It doesn't have to stay in the groove
>> but make sure it doesn't get kinked or bent badly.
>> Slide the tool and wire over a wire wrap post. Place
>> your index finger at the unwrapper end and twizzle the
>> tool clockwise. This is the tricky part. You need to
>> put enough pressure with your index finger so that
>> there are no opening between wraps but not too much
>> or you'll get overlapped wraps. I also find that the
>> first turn of the tool should have no pressure until
>> the wire has one start wrap. You will also find
>> that you won't be able to twizzle it to completion
>> as one motion. You need to make sure that it doesn't
>> back rotate as you go for another grab with your
>> fingers ( this is where another hand comes in handy ).
>> If you get an opening between wraps, don't think you
>> can just squeeze it down to until it looks OK. This
>> make a loose wrap that will have poor electrical connection.
>> Overlapped wraps should be redone as well.
>> Now, go and practice. You'll get the hang of it soon
>> enough.
>> Dwight
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Does anyone know what system these are for? I've never heard of one before. I had a MD-2 and it used 5 1/4" drives. This is in a biege case about 8" tall x 6" wide x 20" deep. It has ribbon cable header (50 pin?) on the back along with an AC socket and power switch, the drive appears to be a FH Shugart.
Joe
Hi
I forgot to mention. Use a good sharp pair of wire
cutters. If you use some of the cheaper diagonals,
they flatten the wire, rather then cutting it.
This makes the job of stripping much harder since
the covering doesn't slide off easily.
Just more of wire wrap lore.
Dwight
>From: "Dwight K. Elvey" <dwightk.elvey(a)amd.com>
>
>>From: "Jeffrey H. Ingber" <jingber(a)ix.netcom.com>
>>
>>On Fri, 2002-12-06 at 18:31, Dwight K. Elvey wrote:
>>> Hi Jeff
>>> This is a manual tool and takes a little practice.
>>> You need to first start by stripping about .75 to 1 inch of
>>> insulation from the end of the wire. There is a built
>>
>>Thanks to everyone who provided links. After a few tries I've got it
>>figured out =).
>>
>>I ordered a roll of wire which has a built-in stripper which makes nice
>>1" cuts. Pretty easy process, but I find the slit in the tool to be
>>annoying, as the wire would continually get caught in it. What is the
>>purpose of this? I assume it's to allow you to remove broken wire from
>>the tool easily? I just kept a finger over the slit and eventually was
>>able to get some good wraps.
>>
>>If I had to do this more often I would probably spring for a better
>>tool, but for a once (or twice-off) this seems to do the job.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>Jeff
>
>Hi
> Like any skill, it takes practice. You want to feed the
>free end of the wire through the side that doesn't have
>the stripper on it. You then push the wire into the
>groove with a finger nail. If done correctly, you won't
>have a bend in the wire at the stripper and the wire
>will not break when you strip it.
> You'll find that the spool/stripper unit have the same
>problem. The only strippers I've ever found that worked
>well on wire wrap were those ones that looked like
>small pliers and had white plastic shells that would
>guide the wire onto stripper blades. I'm not sure who
>sells these as they were units I picked up at a surplus
>store.
> As for power wrappers. These require some skill to use
>as well. With these, one can make a larger mess quicker
>than using a manual tool. It is all about practice and
>timing. I've used professional electric and air powered
>wrapping tools. I also have one of those cheap battery
>powered ones at home. With a little practice, I find
>that I can do just as good a job with any of them.
> I've done larger projects. One needs to plan out the
>flow of how you are going to place the wires. Two level
>wire wrapping takes planning. Three level is a little
>more forgiving but it is easy to bend the pins and cause
>shorts.
>Dwight
>
>
>>
>>
>>> in stripper. Look at the spring steel part in the center
>>> of the tool. It has a slit in it that you slide the
>>> wire in and then pull the wire from the other side.
>>> Now that you have the end, thread the wire from the
>>> end, under the small sleeve and along the groove at the
>>> side of the shaft. It doesn't have to stay in the groove
>>> but make sure it doesn't get kinked or bent badly.
>>> Slide the tool and wire over a wire wrap post. Place
>>> your index finger at the unwrapper end and twizzle the
>>> tool clockwise. This is the tricky part. You need to
>>> put enough pressure with your index finger so that
>>> there are no opening between wraps but not too much
>>> or you'll get overlapped wraps. I also find that the
>>> first turn of the tool should have no pressure until
>>> the wire has one start wrap. You will also find
>>> that you won't be able to twizzle it to completion
>>> as one motion. You need to make sure that it doesn't
>>> back rotate as you go for another grab with your
>>> fingers ( this is where another hand comes in handy ).
>>> If you get an opening between wraps, don't think you
>>> can just squeeze it down to until it looks OK. This
>>> make a loose wrap that will have poor electrical connection.
>>> Overlapped wraps should be redone as well.
>>> Now, go and practice. You'll get the hang of it soon
>>> enough.
>>> Dwight
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk
>
>> How can I take +6VDC of battery power and get +5VDC regulated power
>> from it? If it matters, the currents involved will be under 1000mA,
>> but probably over 200mA.
>
>Take a look at 'low dropout regulators'. National Semiconductor make
>(made?) them -- LM2940 series I think. They will work down to about 0.6V
>difference between input and output (so for a 5V regulator, you need at
>least 5.6V in). These are similar to the 7805 -- 3 terminals, and you
>need to put a couple of decoupling caps near the chip.
>
>That probably won't let you use all the capacity of your '6V' battery,
>but it should let you use some of it.
>
>Incidentally, I assuem the Zip drive produced 5V internally from this
>battery pack. Any ideas what it used?
>
>-tony
>
>
Hi
He didn't say what kind of batteries he was using
to provide 6V. Different batteries have different
discharge voltages. Even though a lead-acid battery
is fully discharged at 5V. Using it until 5.5V and
then recharging is a good idea for longer life.
Even if the regulator drops below 5V on the output,
most circuits will work down to 4.8V someplace
or lower. A low dropout regulator, as you suggest,
might still be the best option.
Dwight
>From: "Jeffrey H. Ingber" <jingber(a)ix.netcom.com>
>
>Not strictly classiccmp related, but applies to a repair I'm trying
>perform on a "classic" machine. I purchased a wire-wrap tool from
>DigiKey (PN# K104-ND) and a spool of the proper wire. Unfortunately,
>I've never done wire wrap, and it's not obvious how this tool is used.
>Does anyone have any good resources that explains wire wrapping?
>
>For reference, the tool looks like a scredriver, but has two hollow
>ends, one of which has a long slit running down the side.
>
>Thanks,
>Jeff
>
Hi Jeff
This is a manual tool and takes a little practice.
You need to first start by stripping about .75 to 1 inch of
insulation from the end of the wire. There is a built
in stripper. Look at the spring steel part in the center
of the tool. It has a slit in it that you slide the
wire in and then pull the wire from the other side.
Now that you have the end, thread the wire from the
end, under the small sleeve and along the groove at the
side of the shaft. It doesn't have to stay in the groove
but make sure it doesn't get kinked or bent badly.
Slide the tool and wire over a wire wrap post. Place
your index finger at the unwrapper end and twizzle the
tool clockwise. This is the tricky part. You need to
put enough pressure with your index finger so that
there are no opening between wraps but not too much
or you'll get overlapped wraps. I also find that the
first turn of the tool should have no pressure until
the wire has one start wrap. You will also find
that you won't be able to twizzle it to completion
as one motion. You need to make sure that it doesn't
back rotate as you go for another grab with your
fingers ( this is where another hand comes in handy ).
If you get an opening between wraps, don't think you
can just squeeze it down to until it looks OK. This
make a loose wrap that will have poor electrical connection.
Overlapped wraps should be redone as well.
Now, go and practice. You'll get the hang of it soon
enough.
Dwight
Not strictly classiccmp related, but applies to a repair I'm trying
perform on a "classic" machine. I purchased a wire-wrap tool from
DigiKey (PN# K104-ND) and a spool of the proper wire. Unfortunately,
I've never done wire wrap, and it's not obvious how this tool is used.
Does anyone have any good resources that explains wire wrapping?
For reference, the tool looks like a scredriver, but has two hollow
ends, one of which has a long slit running down the side.
Thanks,
Jeff
Do you have any experience using Standard Pneumatic electric wire wrap
tools? 6021 models with bits can sometimes be had on eBay in the $40 range,
which isn't a whole lot more than buying a new manual tool.
Would that be overkill for a small computer project, or would it be nice to
have?
>From: "Jim Kearney" <jim(a)jkearney.com>
>Reply-To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
>To: <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
>Subject: Re: Wire wrapping
>Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 18:06:33 -0500
>
> >From: "Jeffrey H. Ingber" <jingber(a)ix.netcom.com>
> > Does anyone have any good resources that explains wire wrapping?
>
>This web page has some nice, clear explanations and pictures:
>
>http://www.stdpneumatic.com/resource/tech_wire.html
>
>Jim
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On Dec 6, 22:40, Philip Pemberton wrote:
> Joe wrote:
> > This might be a good time to make a dump of the ROMs before one of
> > them bites the dust.
> I'm not even sure they are 2532s (they might be 2732s). They're TI
branded
> and carry the part numbers "ACE-A" and "ACE-B". I don't have an EPROM
> programmer either...
Besides, the image is on the web:
http://www.home-micros.freeserve.co.uk/JupiterAce/JupiterAce.html
near the bottom of the page.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Hello folks,
recently (yesterday) I got a new (for me, of course) AS/400 box, and started
to play with it. Everything started okay, booted with no problems (after a
year unnoticed in the corner). Today a rebooted it (for whatever reason),
turned it on, re-connected the twinax console, but nothing appears. The
green cursor remains in the upper right corner (meaning that the AS/400 didn't
notice the console yet, afaik). Some hints, ideas, places to point me to?
Cheers,
--
freddy