> > Bill, maybe we can do a joint on this one.
>
> Not if it will stink up my van <g>.
With the big peace symbol on the grill,
don't you get pulled over a lot?
;)
>And here is my follow-up question... Is there an *easy* way to get the cover
>off of a DIN plug without making anymore new scars in my fingers?
At least the ones I've worked with, there is a small locking tab on the
casing (kind of like a finger that drops into a hole). I stick a small
flat blade screwdriver under that, and then push the cable (and connector
by proxy) out. If there isn't a cable attached already, then I stick a
screwdriver (usually philips) into the end where the cable would go, and
push the insides out.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Hi,
I am looking for the TDS703 or equivalent development software for
INMOS' A100 DSP
chips so that I can program a IMSB009 accordingly. Does anyone have the
development
software for either this DSP chip or the actuall IMSB009 board
itself? Thanks...
Ram
--
,,,,
/'^'\
( o o )
-oOOO--(_)--OOOo-------------------------------------
| Ram Meenakshisundaram |
| Senior Software Engineer |
| OpenLink Financial Inc |
| .oooO Phone: (516) 227-6600 x267 |
| ( ) Oooo. Email: rmeenaks(a)olf.com |
---\ (----( )--------------------------------------
\_) ) /
(_/
Hi, again.
I just tripped on my Jensen box looking for the dial calipers, and
that reminded me. I have a DEC 2000/150axp, working, and a copy of
Digital Unix v4.0, licensed, that I want to run on it. The problem is
the EISA SCSI firmware. The OS wants firmware version G2, my AHA1742
has version G1. I tried the firmware images from Adaptec, but the DEC
installer hurls on that too. Does anyone know where I might find DEC
firmware upgrades for the SCSI adapter? Burning the EEPROMs isn't a
problem.
This box is only 9-and-a-half years old, so you'll all please excuse
me. ;)
Doc
Aladdin. Securing the Global Village.
Gabriele-M?nter.Stra?e 1, D-82110 Germering
Tel: +49 (89) 89 42 21 -0 Fax: +49 (89) 89 42 21 -40
See our Web site at http://www.aladdin.de
On 01/08/2002 08:47:59 PM PST "Fred Cisin (XenoSoft)" wrote:
>
>On Tue, 8 Jan 2002, M H Stein wrote:
>> Do I gather from previous discussions that it's a
>> problem reading an Apple II floppy disk on a PC?
>
>No PROBLEM, just impossible.
>
>There have been a few special boards that could be installed into a PC to
>do it. The Compaticard is NOT one of them. "Match Point" might be, as is
>Apple Turnover, and it's even theoretically possible to do it with the
>CopyII Option board (if you are willing to write a program comparable to
>the Apple OS file system. Same with Catweasel - theoretical possibility,
>but significant software needed but not available.
>
>> I think with a little software I could transfer it
>> to one of my PETs via the cassette port, and from there
>> it would be trivial to get to a PC, but I'm hoping
>> there's an easier way.
>
>Really? The PC can't do PET disks, either. But you MIGHT be able to
>interface one of the aftermarket IEEE488 drives to the Pet with some
>trivial hardware, and then interface it to the PC, and just write a file
>system for it.
>
>But, if you have a serial port on the Pet, then it'll be easy.
>
>Or maybe you could program the cassette port of a 5150?
>
>If you have an Amiga, and are willing to buy or write significant
>software, it can (in theory) do both Apple and PC.
>
>> I have a CompatiCard I and Uniform, and I still have
>Those will be nice for doing MFM diskettes. No help at all for GCR
>(Apple and Commodore).
>
>
>
>> the T300 that no one wanted which can do 96TPI 640K
>> MS-DOS diskettes as well as the usual MS-DOS 5.25
>> formats, if that's of any use.
>
>If you DO figure out a use for it, let me know. Somewhere around here are
>a few of them. I patched PC-Write to run on it, but never came up with
>anything else to do with it. Eventually I gave one to Toshiba's MRI
>division, because they couldn't get one throught their main corporation.
>
>--
>Grumpy Ol' Fred cisin(a)xenosoft.com
>
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Haven't looked recently but, they show up on ebay quite often. Prices are
typically in the $2.00 - $5.00 range per tape.
About two years ago, I bought 30 boxes of new 2400' tapes. As I recall, I
paid $3.00 per tape (with shipping). I'd be willing to part with some but,
since I'm recently unemployed, I gotta make some money on the deal.
SteveRob
>From: "Jay West" <west(a)tseinc.com>
>Reply-To: classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org
>To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
>Subject: Re: eMag Solutions LLC announces end of life plan for open reel
>(9-track) tape
>Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 08:05:11 -0600
>
>Aw Geeze.... is this really the end? I would go nuts if I couldn't get 9
>track mag tapes anymore. Pretty much everything in my collection depends on
>it. The note says emag is the last manufacturer. Is that in the US, or in
>the world? I'm wondering if they will still be available for purchase, but
>will originate from overseas manufacturers.
>
>Anyone have a box of good condition 1/2 mag tapes they'll part with?
>Probably not now I would guess.
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
! From: Tothwolf [mailto:tothwolf@concentric.net]
!
!
! You can remove NiCad leftovers from the boards/parts with
! vinegar after removing the battery. You need to remove
! all traces of vinegar once you are done, otherwise it will
! damage copper traces and other metals. I apply a paste
! mixture of baking soda and water after rinsing the vinegar
! off, and work over the area with a small plastic brush.
! The baking soda will neutralize any remaining vinegar, and
! seems to be just abrasive enough to clean off most of the
! corrosion without further damaging the copper traces.
! After a mild scrubbing, I rinse the baking soda off with a
! kitchen sprayer, and run the board through the dishwasher.
! Not all boards can or should be washed in the dishwasher,
! however.
!
! This process also works for alkaline batteries, since the
! NiCad mess is also a strong alkaline.
So, it sounds like this should fix up my AA battery size MagLite flashlite,
where the Duracell leaked in there...
--- David A Woyciesjes
--- C & IS Support Specialist
--- Yale University Press
--- mailto:david.woyciesjes@yale.edu
--- (203) 432-0953
--- ICQ # - 905818
I believe that the Diamond Trackstar can use a PC floppy drive to read an
Apple II disk by using a special passive cable between the Trackstar board
and the floppy. For me, I use a real Apple drive connected to the Trackstar.
Otherwise, I use ADT to get apple disk images into and out of the
Apple<=>PC. For preservation of BASIC listings I would get a super serial
card for the Apple, null-modem connect it to the PC, do PR#2 and then "list"
the program to a terminal program (with screen logging ON) running on the
PC. This same trick, console redirection, is used to get the Apple portion
of the ADT program into the Apple (except using IN#2 I believe).
Rich
==========================
Richard A. Cini, Jr.
Congress Financial Corporation
1133 Avenue of the Americas
30th Floor
New York, NY 10036
(212) 545-4402
(212) 840-6259 (facsimile)
-----Original Message-----
From: M H Stein [mailto:mhstein@usa.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 11:28 PM
To: 'ClassicComputers'
Subject: Apple disk -> MSDOS
Do I gather from previous discussions that it's a
problem reading an Apple II floppy disk on a PC?
I'm about to get rid of my last Apple II clone (No,
Ernest, I haven't forgotten you) but there are some
Basic programs on Apple diskettes that I might want to
port to GW-Basic some day. Trouble is, the Apple
has no parallel or serial cards and I don't feel like
copying them off the screen by hand.
I think with a little software I could transfer it
to one of my PETs via the cassette port, and from there
it would be trivial to get to a PC, but I'm hoping
there's an easier way.
I have a CompatiCard I and Uniform, and I still have
the T300 that no one wanted which can do 96TPI 640K
MS-DOS diskettes as well as the usual MS-DOS 5.25
formats, if that's of any use.
Any ideas?
mike
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk [mailto:ard@p850ug1.demon.co.uk]
> Sent: 08 January 2002 19:34
> To: classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org
> Subject: Re: Back to board washing for a moment
>
> propan-2-ol (available from Maplin, or at least it used to
> be. They call
> it isopropyl alcohol).
Dammit; I had a can of that in my hands last night and *put it back*. Duh.
> Sometimes smoking can come from dry joints that are arcing.
> By removing
> the flyback and resoldering it, you've eliminated one
> possible cause...
Yup; I'm going to do that tonight. Last night was 'get the UK101s booting'
night and I was *nearly* successful.
> Annother cuase (which led me a merry dance once) is just dust
> burning off
> high power resistors that are _supposed_ to run hot. No
> fault, other than
> it needed cleaning...
That's what started me off on the boardwashing thoughts, and you've also
mentioned that in off-list mails. Doesn't help the fact that the VDU itself
doesn't appear to work aside from heater glow, but it's one more thing
crossed off the list :)
a