Ok, it's not quite on topic, but It's very funny...
http://www.pueyrredon.com.ar/irix.htm
Regards,
Chris
Christopher Smith, Perl Developer
Amdocs - Champaign, IL
/usr/bin/perl -e '
print((~"\x95\xc4\xe3"^"Just Another Perl Hacker.")."\x08!\n");
'
>DVD-ROM drives are cheap these days, and many of them allow you to
>change the region at least once. I've been tempted to buy one or two
>extras and set each one to a different region...
Humm... thats an idea. Get two $40 DVD-Rom drives, set one to Region 1
and one to Region 2, install them both, and just use the right one for a
given movie (most video cards will decode both PAL and NTSC, and usually
do a far better job than a cheap external converter will).
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
>TRON was a Big project, costing over $18 million
Man how times change... $18m for a movie... that might just cover Jeff
Bridges pay these days.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
In regard to the movie TRON, as someone stated earlier, I believe
the work for it was indeed done on a Cray.
The F1 was actually used to do the computer graphics for a Disney
movie called "Flight of the Navigator". There's a really nifty
site about it at the following URL.
http://vhost2.zfx.com/~dave/f1.html
Kind regards,
Sean
BTW: Pete, are those EISA cards still up for grabs? I might be
willing to take them... I could always hope that NetBSD will
support my Jensen more effectively in the future and that
I may be able to put some of them to interesting use!
--
Sean Caron http://www.diablonet.net
scaron(a)engin.umich.edu root(a)diablonet.net
>And.... TRON Collectors Edition on DVD was released today!! :-D The coolest
>computer animation of the 80's!
Did you buy it? Any good extras? I know it is a 2 disc set, but I am just
curious what is on the 2nd disc... hopefully more than just the crappy
"Making Of" Disney made years ago. (hosted by what's his name that played
"Alan/Tron")
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
> MS-DOS.. Or a DOS shell in Windows 98 SE and lower (Windows XP and 2000
> *SUCK* at running programs that use graphics) IIRC, it is compilied under
> 32-bit protected mode.
Sure they suck, on that mangy 486...
;)
Most graphics problems under Windows Xp and 2000 can
ultimately be traced to poorly-written video card
drivers... the NVidia and TNT, Voodoo, Banshee, and
other 3D-focused cards are the worst. The developers
put all their time into the 3D code, leaving the 2D
code working like crap.
YMMV, etc...
-dq
> On Tue, 15 Jan 2002, Tom Uban wrote:
> > Ok, so since this group seems to be into most everything, including
> > the occasional classic computer related topic, I am wondering if
> > anyone has suggestions as to the source of building scaffolding
> > here in the midwest (chicago) area? I need enough sections to do
> > work under the eves of my two story house, which means about 30'.
>
> How high can you stack Dells?
Dimensions....
> 1.) Does the 9885 require special disks or will generic 8" floppies work?
> What is the format for the disks?
At a guess (based on a mention of "about 500,000 bytes" in one of the
HP T&M catalogs), they're single-sided double-density disks, and
almost certainly soft-sectored.
-Frank McConnell
After a long, long delay, C64View, the venerable PC C64 image viewer utility,
finally been updated (to version 0.5.x).
A new Power Macintosh port is available as well!
This version fixes a few bugs in the old 0.499.x, as well as adding support
for generic 8K hires bitmaps and the ability to save the image as a .pict
(Macintosh version only). C64View can thus view DOODLE!, KoalaPainter, Print
Shop Screen Magic, Flexidraw, 1K colourmap and 8K bitmap files.
The PC version runs on MS-DOS 5.0 or higher, as well as Windows 95/98/ME/NT.
The Mac version runs on any Power Mac with CarbonLib (prefer OS 8.6 or higher).
C64View is freeware. Check system requirements and download from
http://www.armory.com/%7Espectre/cwi/c64view/
--
----------------------------- personal page: http://www.armory.com/~spectre/ --
Cameron Kaiser, Point Loma Nazarene University * ckaiser(a)stockholm.ptloma.edu
-- The idea is to die young as late as possible. -- Ashley Montagu ------------
All,
I'm having and creating trouble with my Stylewriter 1.
Problem appeared about a month ago. One row of pixels consistently failed
to print. This happened on multiple ink-jet cartridges and after attempting
to clean the cartridge (by soaking in 95% propan-2-ol, or isopropyl as the
label says).
So I opened the thing up, breaking only a few minor plastic latch pieces on
the way (and hey, I glued them back - good as new! :-) ). I ohmed out the
flex cable from the circuit board up to the print head. The left 25 pads on
the circuit board end of the cable conduct with no more than a few ohms up
to the 25 contacts where the print cartridge attaches.
So I reassembled enough to let it print while I could still see the flex
cable. Still missing a row of pixels. The left 2 of the wide traces and the
right 2 of the wide traces connect to pins on the flex-cable connector
which show about 3V rms while printing and zero while not printing. 3V rms
means that's about what my analog Volt-Ohm-meter needle showed while
printing a solid black block.
But I could not get to the middle 4 connectors because the ribbon cable was
in the way. So I took out the circuit board, flipped it over, reconnected
all the cables (right way around? I thought so ....) and tried to print
again. The printer powered up, but as it tried to print the first time, the
power supply (wall-wart) quit working. This was also around the time my VM
probe slipped off one of the pins on the row of transistors I was trying to
check :-(. Did I short something bad, or mis-connect the ribbon cables and
do something equally bad?
The power supply (wall-wart) now puts out about 0.2 V (again on my analog
VM), vs. the 10 or 11 it used to do.
So, questions:
1) Is my (original) problem likely to be one of those transistors? There's
a row of 9 of them, right next to the flex-cable connector, with big fat
traces leading to doubled pins on the connector and thence to nice wide
traces on the flex cable. They are labelled B1243 (I think).
2) What's a less destructive way of telling which one?
- Or is it better to just replace all of them?
3) How, short of a large hammer, do I get the power supply opened up?
4) What am I likely to find toasted in there?
More details available on request. I'm in digest mode, so it'll be a
one-day cycle unless you email me directly (mtapley(a)swri.edu), and still
probably a day because I'll read email at work and the busted machine is at
home.
Apologies if this is not on-topic. Thanks in advance for any help or pointers.
- Mark
