I was able to find a reference this weekend to baking tapes to
reduce binder sticking
http://www.unesco.org/webworld/ramp/html/r9704e/r9704e11.htm
Recovery
Recovery of deteriorated tape and/or signal is an intricate process:
what works on one problem may well destroy, or at least exacerbate
a seemingly similar problem. Sticky tape can be caused by either binder
breakdown, lubricant loss and exuding, or problems with the backing.
Don't assume that all problems are the same just because they create
similar complications. When carrying out any actions that might reasonably
be irreversible - such as baking, or chemical treatments, or buffing the
tape - be sure that you are treating the correct 'illness' and are not
destroying the very thing you are trying to save.
* Baking
One of the methods used to temporarily improve binder problems,
allowing sticky tapes to be played. The information from Ampex - the
developer of the tape-baking procedure - on how long and at what
temperature to bake has been variously quoted at several conditions. I
checked with Quantegy/Ampex for this paper and they tell me that their
recommendations are to a) leave the flanges on the hubs/reels, b)
use a high- quality convection type oven or an environmental chamber,
and c) bake a sticky tape at 113EF/45EC to 131EF /55EC for up to
36 hours (no R/H given) will sufficiently firm up the binder so
that the tape can be played. For 1/4" audio tape, baking for 6 to
8 hours is normally adequate; the longer baking times are for wider
tape widths, such as 2" video or audio multi-track masters. Quantegy/Ampex
warn, however, that the effect of the treatment is temporary, and
it is recommended that the tape be copied within one to two weeks.
Although some report having 20-or-more successful 'bakes', there
is no published or documented information on how many times a tape
can be baked, cycling back and forth between the sticky-firm-sticky
succession before it fails completely or before the signal is distorted or
altered beyond use. Care should be taken that the temperature is well
controlled. One of the specific questions raised is about the potential
affect of increased print-through from the baking process. There have
been no reports of significant problems, but one source recommends
lowering the heat (for example, from 55EC to 45EC) and extending
the baking time if there is concern. Regardless of the time and
temperature selected, do NOT, I repeat NOT, rewind the tape before
baking as this will almost certainly increase print-through problems,
according to Quantegy/Ampex. Specifically, unless there is absolutely
no other option, the hair-dryer-in-a-box solution does not give
adequate environmental controls and is not a recommended solution.
Regardless of the sophistication of the oven used, be sure and allow
the tape to re-acclimatise before handling it, much less playing.
* Environmental conditioning/staging
Some have reported notable success with environmental conditioning/staging
tape instead of either baking or treatment with chemicals. If time allows,
try staging sticky tape at 40EF/4.4EC and 20- to-25% RH (the environment
that is being considered for long term storage by a number of the collections
represented here today) for several weeks to several months before undertaking
more aggressive measures.
* Chemical treatments, including addition or replacement of lubricants,
is another process that has been developed to recover tape with
sticky oxide or loss of lubricants. Like baking, it should be used with
the greatest of care. The only such processes known to me are
proprietary and have not been made available for public use in any detail.
* Cleaning
In general, tape cleaning should follow the same basic premise as
for any other delicate item: use ONLY as much effort and force as is
absolutely necessary. To do even that will probably shorten the life
expectancy of the tape; to do more will probably actively destroy it. In
general, clean with soft, lint-free cloth, such as 3M's Pellon or
3M's #610 Tape Cleaning Fabric. Use moisture and chemicals sparingly,
and only after testing on disposable tapes. Buffing/scraping tape
is generally rejected by all with whom I have spoken, unless all other
efforts have failed.
Don`t know if this is OT but does anyone have
the sourcecode for AMosaic ?
According to the Amosaic FAQ it was once to be
found at ftp.omnipresence.com, but that company
has closed some years ago. The file was named
MosaicSrc.lha .
Regards Jacob Dahl Pind
--------------------------------------------------
= IF this computer is with us now... =
=...It must have been meant to come live with us.=
= (Belldandy - Goddess First class) =
--------------------------------------------------
I've recently worked a deal with someone on the 8002A, so tough luck for
anyone else thinking you might have loved to have another few cubic feet of
toys! Hopefully the folks at the post office are in decent shape - I'd hate
to be responsible for wrecking anyone's back!
Joel A. Weder
jweder(a)telusplanet.net
403-556-4020
While I do agree that the Apple II would be a good machine to study the
basics of programming and simple microcomputing, my personal preference for
learning about microprocessors is the Motorola 68HC11 EVBU. It's a very
inexpensive and compact board featuring the MC68HC11 processor chip.
The HC11 has numerous ports allowing serial and parallel I/O, analog inputs,
pulse counting, with an RS-232 interface for programming and internal EEPROM
for small programs. It's got a decent monitor program (Buffalo) which allows
programming at the assembler level, direct access to every function on the
chip, and there's a wire-wrap area to add more RAM, an EPROM, motor controls
or what have you....
I picked up an EVBU some years ago to use as the heart of a small robot, but
put it away when life got too hectic. I've recently got it going again and
now have an external 32k RAM, a piezo buzzer, and two relays to drive the
robot's motors. I'll be adding optical sensors wired to the analog inputs
and eventually even an LCD display and/or a keypad.
The 68HC11 EVBU is cheap (if you can still find it), has good documentation,
and is a great platform to learn a LOT about microprocessors. The only
downside is that it's likely a bit of a steep learning curve for anybody
who's really new to the hardware side of things.
Joel A. Weder
jweder(a)telusplanet.net
403-556-4020
On Jul 15, 7:48, charles hobbs wrote:
> Tony Duell wrote:
> > Over here, I'd recoment getting a BBC Micro.
> I lucked out at a flea market about 10 years ago and found one for $15 or
> so. It had a US style plug, so I figured it would work fine "over here".
It
> did, with a few caveats:
>
> 1. Unlike US micros, which had a TV output on Channels 3 or 4, the
> BBC output RF on UHF (Channel 37 or something like that). Of course,
> the channel numbers and frequencies used in the US are different than
> those in the UK.
>
> 2. It still outputs a 625-line screen, which my 525-line US TV can only
> display a part of (some lines off the top and bottom are missing)
>
> 3. It outputs PAL color, so a NTSC TV will get a monochrome picture
>
> (It also supports direct RGB output, so, theoretically, I could wire a
cable
> that would connect it to a monitor, fixing all of those problems)
In a way, you're unlucky -- you have a bit of an oddity. Acorn did sell
BBC Micros in the States, but the ones officially shipped had a number of
modifications: 110V PSU, VHF modulator instead of UHF, 525-line 60Hz video
instead of 625-line 50Hz, "COLOR" keyword in BASIC instead of "COLOUR".
I can't remember if they changed the colour subsystem to do NTSC instead of
PAL. I think that's unlikely as it would have involved changing the PCB;
the changes I know about only required changed to the ROM.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
I've never seen a light pen in use on any machine ... I've
only seen them in pictures. How do these things work?
Does anybody know how to obtain one or have information
on how to build on?
Thanks,
Mike
On Jul 14, 21:40, Eric Chomko wrote:
> I've been accumulating the damages from a recent thunderstorm. Wow!
> Originally I thought
> it was just a GFI breaker and the phones. But it turns out that a
> computer got hit (just a PC),
> and the cable box as well as a TV. I'm making a list (8 entries so far).
> Thank God my bro-in-law
> here in Maryland gave me a surge supressor that I put on my SWTPC. Makes
> me think I need
> more of those things.
>
> Anyone else have such an event happen?
Yes, I've had it happen. Over here, the mains is usually fed from a
three-phase transformer, with every third house on the same phase. A few
years ago, I was watching the storm pass overhead (I like watching
lightning) when the house three along from me had a direct hit on their TV
aerial. There was a huge BANG!. The damage to their house was extensive:
part of the aerial was vapourised, a few other things melted, much of the
electrical equipment in the house was damaged in some way. Almost every
burglar alarm in the street went off, and two (on the same supply phase)
were wrecked.
I wasn't so badly off. The bang was so loud I'd jumped hard enough make a
picture fall off the wall. One monitor went bang and stopped working so I
pulled its plug. My alarm went off but I was able to reset it. When I'd
done that, I had a quick look round to see if anything was on fire, but
although a few things had obviously stopped working, nothing looked like it
needed immediate attention so I went to help the neighbours with their
alarm (there are two old couples whose houses I sometimes look after if
they're away). When I came back about an hour later I had a more thorough
look.
One of a pair of identical modems was fried; the other one was fine. The
cordless phone never worked again, but the answering machine on the same
line was apparently OK (though it never worked quite as well). The TV and
video both died. There was a strong burnt PCB smell in the lounge, which
turned out to be the remains of the satellite tuner, which was still
drawing power and slowly melting. The monitor that had gone bang was a
complete mess inside, and was a write-off, though the one next to it was
fine, as was the Acorn Archimedes it was connected to. A PDP-11/34 in the
garage had stopped, it turned out that the big input filter on the control
box had burnt out.
The TV company declared the video recorder to be irrepairable, and the
engineer who looked at the TV said it was rather black inside, but they
took it away and repaired it -- apparently they ended up changing almost
every board inside and it was ages before they brought it back (we had a
loan set in the meantime).
But if you're thinking of relying on surge suppressors to protect your
precious items from a lightning strike: _don't_. They're intended to
protect from the spikes induced by nearby lightning discharges, not a
direct hit or a strike that hits a nearby transformer or the supply. My
PDP-11 is the testament to that.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
> >MicroBug was first introduced with the Mac Plus and has been a standard
> >component in the ROM of all Mac OS computers since then. MicroBug is
invoked
> >when the system takes a Non-Maskable Interrupt (NMI) and there is no other
> >debugger (e.g., MacsBug) installed.
>
> What debugger did the 128k have in it then? It shipped with
> a small switch that pressed both a recessed reset switch and a
> programmers switch. The switches were accessed through the side
> ventilation slots.
We used the switch with MacsBug, MACS = Motorola Advanced Computer Systems...
It wasn't ROM-resident, you had to put it on the system disk from
whcih you booted, but we'd hit the interrupt switch to drop into
it when we needed it. In those days, it wasn't full-screen, but
you could redirect the macsBug console to a serial port and debug
that way...
Regards,
-dq
> I did not suffer a lightning strike, but rain blew a surprising distance
> in an open window across the room on my UPS and shorted it out during a
> particularly bad T-storm. Fortunately I was in the next room when it
> happened since it emitted impressive sparks.
I'm the same way! If something's going to go shpritzenshparks, I love
to be there to see it. Sort of like train wrecks, I suppose (about 100
years ago, the Big Attraction at the Kentucky State Fair was an exhibit
where they collided two steam locomotives head-on!).
About 15 years ago, while in an altered state, a severe thunderstorm
brought down a 440v (480V? 700V?) line down into pooled water at the end
of the street. So much was going on that the utility didn't catch this
for maybe 30 minutes.
At the pole to which it was still connected, a few sparks were going
on, and the lights of nearby homes, which were pretty dim due to the
voltage drop, were gradually getting brighter as the voltage would rise.
Then, it would rise enough that it would discharge down the felled line
into the polled water. I was pretty close; when it discharged, it was
like a lightning strike, except with a LOUD 60hz hum. Incredible..
Yeah, and dangerous too, but I'm not interested in living in a
Safe World.
Regards,
-dq