I have a 4 workstation generic Apricot network using MS-NET over
Omninet.....and I'd like to tie it to my ethernet network. How would you go
about this? The physical side - I'm thinking about having an old IBM PS/2
model 50 as a link between the two environments - IIRC there was an MCA
omninet card and I'm certain I've got an ethernet card somewhere.
What would anyone suggest I do about the software side? MS-Net is netbios
- net share \\xxxxx\yyy and so on, and I dimly recall there being an IBM
PC Lan program bridge or something, but there my memory fails me.....
Ideas?
//Rich
On Nov 19, 21:04, ajp166 wrote:
> I don't remember that foam as being conductive. Most conductive foams
> tend to shred, those bits are not kind to the electronics.
Agreed :-) The brown stuff isn't much nicer after 15-30 years. I suspect
someone before me had replaced foam that lost its resilience, and thought
conductive foam would be better in some way.
> From: Pete Turnbull <pete(a)dunnington.u-net.com>
> >I've been cleaning up my recently-acquired PDP-8/E, and I've had to
remove
> >the plastic foam from the inside of the lid, which was fairly horrible.
> > I'm not sure what best to replace it with
Thanmks to everyone who replied. I'll just use ordinary high-density foam.
It's much cheaper than a couple of square feet of good quality conductive
foam, which would be a bit thin anyway.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
On Nov 24, 21:22, Ethan Dicks wrote:
>
> --- ajp166 <ajp166(a)bellatlantic.net> wrote:
> > From: Ben Franchuk <bfranchuk(a)jetnet.ab.ca>
> > >What about using white leds?
> > >Ben Franchuk.
> >
> > Why? Back then when the led mod was common red was the only
> > available visible color for leds. White leds are a bit blue rich
though
> > they would work. One point is that there are some 28 or so leds/lamps
> > and good ones will not be cheap and cleap ones will not be good.
Agreed. The LEDS are water-white plastic, but red-emitting. Each has its
leads cut short, about 1/8" from the body, and a small 430R resistor
soldered to the cathode and a wire (probably the trimmed-off resistor lead)
to the anode. (Is this what some people have described as an "LED module"
or is that something more substantial?) They then fit into the bi-pin lamp
sockets. The resistors look like modern miniature metal film, but could be
20 years old.
Similar red LEDs cost pennies, maybe 10p. 25p - 35p with integral
resistor. Bi-pin bulbs of about the right voltage/current/intensity cost a
bit more, about 50p each here. I did think about white LEDs, but they cost
over ?3 each. As Allison says, I would need 28 (plus a bag of spares if I
use lamps) and white LEDs give off a very cold bluish light, quite unlike
the slightly yellow lamps. I thought about yellow LEDs, but they're much
*too* yellow. Then I thought about pairs of LEDs, but that's just getting
too silly.
> At about $3/each, yes they are expensive, but only slightly more
expensive
> than real DEC lamps. Personally, I'd go with either red LEDs or bulbs,
> since that's what's appropriate for the period.
I think I'll stick with the existing LEDs and maybe "save up my pocket
money" to buy 40 or so bulbs (28 plus a dozen spares).
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
On Nov 24, 21:03, ajp166 wrote:
> From: Pete Turnbull <pete(a)dunnington.u-net.com>
> >The front bezel (frame round the panel) has been repainted white, and
> the
> >paint has flaked or chipped off in places, to reveal a chipped coat of
> >beige paint. I'd like to refinish and respray it. What's the correct
> >colour?
>
> DEC gray #68 A color close to eggshell toward very light gray.
Sounds like a very pale grey, not quite white? A lot lighter than the
panel on, say, an 11/34, or an 11/03? I'll see what I can find. Thanks!
> >I'm toying with the idea of replacing the LEDs with bi-pin bulbs, as the
> >panel was originally a bulb panel. The resistors for the warm-up
> current
> >have been clipped out. What value should they be?
>
> leave the leds, likely that mod was done very long ago. The lamps
> tended to die too often.
Yes, I'm sure it was done a long time ago, possibly even when the machine
was new. Judging from the date codes on ICs and dates on some boards, it
was made in early 1974.
> >What's J5 (3-pin Mate-N-Lok) on the PSU for?
>
> Power controller.
Are you thinking of the ones on the back (on the outside)? This one is
inside, near the front, and I think Tony's suggestion (for the power fail)
is right.
> >Lastly (for now :-)), which direction should the fans blow?
> Unknown on direction, I think "out". Filter was a layer of foam where
> there
> was one. I have a an 8f so they are somewhat different but the fans blow
> in
> across the cards. The PS in the reaw with its own fan. The 8e has the
> power supply down the left side(facing the front from front) and thefrom
> right
> (input) to left (out through the PS). The power supply will tolerate
> higher temps
> if memory serves than core. Keeping the core cool and at a relatively
> constant temp was the key to stable ops.
In that case, I exercise my right to change my mind, and I think they
probably are the right way round. The air blown out of the PSU isn't very
warm, but it will presumably be warmer when I put lots of cards in and give
it more of a load.
At some point, I would like to try to get the original core working (it
wasn't when I got it). Expect more questions, about debugging 8K core
stacks, since I don't have a printset!
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
At the risk of raising the blood pressure of the purists on this list,
I have a controller board out of a Corvus Omninet Drive (marked
8012-10970, 8010-?492-01 REV A. which I scrapped many years ago to use
the cabinet and drive to back up my Cromemcos. Sorry to confess, I
also pulled a few small parts off the board over the years, however,
most of it is still complete and it could either be put back together if
one had another one to compare, or perhaps someone could use the major
chips on it (WD1010, Corvus 8115-03023 REV B, etc.) Also have a few old
AT controllers with WD2010B's on them, not socketed though.
Any interest?
2nd question:
Does anybody know anything about the HD interface bus Cromemco used
with their early IMI drives (7012 - 8" with transparent cover, 5007,
5018 & 5021 5 1/2") and the WDI/WDI-II controllers? I'm just curious
if the same interface was used in any other systems (single 34 pin
header, 7 units max, differential servo clock supplied by drive, so
it doesn't look like SA1000).
Interesting aside: when Cromemco finally went the ST506 route with the
STDC controller, they made a replacement HD board available to convert the
IMI 5 1/2" drives to a standard ST506 interface.
Finally, I also have a Corvus S-100 board; looks like it might be a
host adapter for a disk drive of some sort. Only markings are
Corvus S-100, 8008 REV K, copyright 1980; 11 TTL chips & a 34 pin
header. Anybody know what it is and/or want it?
m
Your are charged with arranging an exhibition to illustrate the history
of computing. Due to a sufficiently advanced technology you can recover
any historical machine or artifact without cost.
List the 20 to 30 systems you would display and briefly explain the
reason for choosing each.
-- hbp : just for fun ;)
