[cctalk] Re: Need AUI cable

50 pin DD connectors are alive and well on the backplanes of some day job ATRs with new electronics in the old VME form factor. 3 x 16 STPs pass through them very nicely en route to front panel connectors. Both dense, decently robust and legacy compliant. More generally, if you have access to a Daniels AFM8 crimp tool and positioner, the Harting crimp contact Dsubs are very good for odd jobs; e.g. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/d-sub-connectors/1007759 The turned pin contacts are much preferable to the bent tin ones e.g. https://www.peigenesis.com/en/shop/part-information/M3902964369/TRI/EACH/30… Unfortunately, while the bodies are inexpensive the pins and infrastructure are not. More positively, the connectors don't noticeably degrade with rework. Martin -----Original Message----- From: Paul Koning via cctalk [mailto:cctalk@classiccmp.org] Sent: 28 June 2023 13:19 To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org Cc: Paul Koning <paulkoning(a)comcast.net> Subject: [cctalk] Re: Need AUI cable There is also DD, though I've never seen one in the wild. DA is the shell for AUI connectors, DC is used for RS-422 (37 pins) I think. All of these come in regular density and high density variations. For most of them, regular is 2 rows and HD is 3 -- so a VGA connector is a DE-15, high density DE shell connector. But the DD regular density is 3 rows and the high density is 4 rows. Meanwhile, on AUI cables: the difficulty with plugging a transceiver into the Pro is that the Pro uses regular nuts, for a plug that secures by screws. That's non-standard, since the AUI spec calls for the "turret" and sliding latch type. So a standard AUI cable wouldn't be a real cure because you'd still have that mismatch. A simple solution is an adapter. I bought one from L-com: https://www.l-com.com/d-sub-aui-to-db15-adapter-male-female which says that it is "discontinued" but also shows "available: 11" so perhaps you can still get one. Failing that, an option would be to get a "socket saver" -- which is just a thin device with a connector at each end, intended to save the device connectors from wear -- and remove the transceiver-side fastener so the transceiver can plug in. That second option doesn't give you a secure attachment but it's likely good enough. paul