DEC BA11-K KY11-L mounting brackets -- how?

Paul Birkel pbirkel at gmail.com
Mon Apr 19 02:38:49 CDT 2021


Apparently DEC redid their design; my entire assembly is quite different and
"it just works".  I imagine that you aren't the first to be flummoxed by
their original design.

In my6 case there is no bump-out sub-assembly spot-welded to the plate,
instead there is a separate wide-flat U bracket where the ends attach
above/below to the plate (which is threaded) and the middle attaches forward
to the console (which is threaded).  The wide-flat U bracket is first
attached to the flat-plate (chassis in any position).  The flat-plate has a
wide notch aligned with the attached wide-flat U bracket center to allow the
console to be screwed in from the back (chassis necessarily extended).  The
3-U filler panel is attached with Velcro to the flat plate; no ball-breaking
required :->.

-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Fritz
Mueller via cctalk
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2021 1:45 AM
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Cc: Noel Chiappa
Subject: Re: DEC BA11-K KY11-L mounting brackets -- how?


> On Apr 18, 2021, at 7:40 PM, Noel Chiappa <jnc at mercury.lcs.mit.edu> wrote:
> There's an intermediate 10" or so high adapter piece (one either side, of
course) mounted to the KY11-L... on the bottom, a single 1" or so machine
screw (#8, I think) goes through the vertical tab on the side at the front
of the BA11, to a tapped hole in the adapter piece.

Thanks for the details, Noel!

Pictures of my brackets should be viewable at
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wni3mDAQHozK9Ho27

The interesting/confusing bit for me is the bottom part...  In the second
picture you can see that my brackets just have a punched oval hole at the
bottom, and not a "tapped hole" per your description above.  The tabs on the
chassis to which these brackets mount all have #10 press fit threaded
bushings.

The bit at the top, with the plastic pieces (called out on the parts lists
as "latch, molding") and countersunk #10 screws is clear, and looks like
what you describe.

...
    cheers,
      --FritzM.





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