Looking at my notes I found a similar situation: Tape would not load
properly. Turned the rear nut 1/2 turn in, and it loaded. Then it would
not read, turning the front nut down 1/2 turn allowed it to do proper
reads and restores from an already-written tape.
I think there is an oscilliscope method of setting the capstain height
out there somewhere, but this "barn door" method works for me as well.
C
On 2/13/2023 9:31 PM, Chris Zach via cctalk wrote:
No I don't. I just lubricate them. Odd though, did
you turn the nut down
the same number of turns and is the capstain dragging on the tape?
C
On 2/13/2023 8:05 PM, Nigel Johnson Ham via cctalk wrote:
> Chris, I don't suppose you have the part number for suitable
> replacement bearings, do you? I have cleaned out the sensor wheel but
> still the same problem - but when i give the idler wheel a little push
> it at least goes to ready.
>
> cheers,
>
> Nigel
>
>
> On 2023-02-08 10:49, Chris Zach via cctalk wrote:
>> I think it's metal, but using a bit of good old soapy water and a
>> rinse/dry should be fine. Remember that there is a little window
>> screen part there to ensure the optical system only sees the slit
>> right under it, don't forget to install it as well.
>>
>> Glad to hear there is progress. Let us know how it works out!
>>
>> C
>>
>> On 2/8/2023 10:06 AM, Nigel Johnson Ham via cctalk wrote:
>>> Well, I found dust and what looks like oil on the optical wheel. It
>>> looks like somebody may have tried to lube the bearings in situ and
>>> used too much oil :-(
>>>
>>> I'm amused to see that it uses the same moiré principle that was
>>> used way back in the RK05!
>>>
>>> Do you know if the pattern on the wheel is purely cut out, or is
>>> there any photographic film involved? I think the only possible
>>> solution would be to clean it with isopropyl, but useless to do that
>>> if it is film.
>