12 Oct
2022
12 Oct
'22
4:39 p.m.
It is called a Tinnerman nut and they are available currently according
to a google search
cheers,
Nigel
Nigel Johnson, MSc., MIEEE, MCSE VE3ID/G4AJQ/VA3MCU
Amateur Radio, the origin of the open-source concept!
Skype: TILBURY2591
On 2022-10-12 11:32, Ethan Dicks via cctalk wrote:
> On Tue, Oct 11, 2022 at 1:17 PM Vincent Slyngstad via cctalk
> <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org> wrote:
>> On 10/11/2022 10:08 AM, Tony Duell wrote:
>>> On Tue, Oct 11, 2022 at 6:04 PM Vincent Slyngstad via cctalk
>>> <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Those are the ones. The 3D printed parts are essentially triangular
>>>> blocks that mount to the rack and have a drilled and tapped hole for
the
>>>> recessed Allen screw.
> As a 3D Printed part, looks good.
>
>>> Why on earth would you 3D print something like that? Machining it from
>>> a metal block would be a lot stronger.
> Strength isn't the only parameter here. A plastic block is plenty
> strong enough unless you routinely pull down on your front panel when
> you are standing up.
>
> I _am_ a fan of small machine shops, but even though I have access to
> a very nice one at our Makerspace, it doesn't take me that long to
> download a part file and press "print".
>
>> The DEC part is essentially bent bar stock, with a nut press-fit into
>> it. Also easy to to do if you have the tooling.
> Yep. I have mine right here. My micrometer is elsewhere, but looks
> like it's made from 1/8" steel flat stock (with anti-corrosion
> plating), and has 3 bends (apex and two ends), a clip-nut for the
> machine screw in the cast face, and two mounting holes. Not hard to
> make with a mill (or a file) and a break.
>
> The clip nut is 10-32, BTW. I just checked. No more difficult to
> source tooling than 6-32
>
> If you made it from metal. you could skip the clip nut and tap the
> bracket itself, but if you removed the face often, I could see that
> eventually stripping-out.
>
>> I know a lot more folks with a 3D printer than I do the folks with metalwork
experience.
> Agreed. I know lots of people with 3D Printers that cost $300 USD or
> less, and they are much easier to learn to use than learning how to
> run a mill (safely). There's absolutely nothing about this part that
> you couldn't make on a 10-year-old tiny hobby 3D Printer. It's not
> detailed and can easily be made from ABS or PLA (the most common
> plastics). If you printed it on its side (with the notch facing
> "up"), with unbroken filament going around the perimeter, it would be
> a lot stronger than printing it "point up" in layers. Your mounting
> holes might be a little more ragged but they are covered up anyway.
>
> I haven't printed Vince's parts but on the surface, they look good.
> One possible improvement could be to design in a pocket for a 10-32
> nut. There are ways to print parts and pause the printing to install
> metal hardware and overprint for retention. It's not a beginner's
> technique, and heat-staked inserts are easier to apply, but a captured
> nut can be made to float.
>
> -ethan