-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Dunfield via cctalk <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
Sent: 25 November 2023 14:06
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Cc: Dave Dunfield <1297.dunfield(a)gmail.com>
Subject: [cctalk] Re: VT100 Monitor Board
Rob Jarratt 25 Nov 2023 8:47 a.m.
Of course the worry is, why? There could be a fault on the board.
I am hesitant just to replace the fuse and try it...
An older CRT terminal is probably a bit too much current draw for this, but
you can prob use it in a setup to test parts...
A very handy gadget you can make very easily, which I use all the time when
testing small devices in "unknown operational state" is a simple current
limiter. (following discussion based on North America power, numbers may
be different if you are in a different part of the world).
The "smallest" typical line circuit is 15A which is more than enough to cause
damage to small devices experiencing excessive power draw through a fault
(often indicated by a blown fuse).
The "limiter" relies on the fact that an incandescent light bulb will draw/pass
a
fair bit of current when it is cold, and much less when it's warm. (this is
because they are designed to "turn on" fast)
Thanks. I am familiar with the light bulb current limiter, although I must say I
hadn't thought of using it in this case. I have used it when testing PSUs, but as this
is downstream of the PSU I wonder if it would help? My bench PSU has current limiting
abilities though, so I can provide current limited voltages within the range of the PSU.
It is actually a twin PSU each with a 0-30V range, so I probably could drive the board
that way.
Thanks
Rob
In my case, I have three light sockets wired in parallel, all in series with the hot
side of a receptacle. This lets me change from a single 25w bulb (very little
current possible) up to 3 100w bulbs (a good part of amp before it seriously
limits). For example, 100w bulbs draw .833ish (100/120) when operating fully
lit - x3 = 2.5A max current - this would only happen if the device under test
was "shorted", presenting 0 series resistance and would therefore effectively
have 0 volts across it.
In practice, you could prob. draw 1/2 amp (160ish ma per bulb) without
warming them "too much" to seriously drop a lot of voltage. Much more than
that and the bulbs will light up rather than hearing "popping" sounds from
the device under test :-)
-- Btw, I've given most of my CRT terminals away - For VT100's I use my
"PC100"
program - It provides very good VT100 emulation using an old DOS (or
DosBox) PC - it remains "text" mode, so it turns "smooth scroll" into
"slow
scroll"
and
large fonts into "double spaced" fonts - but in all other respects nothing
I've
used it on has been able to tell it's not an actual VT100!
(I'm sure there are better/graphical VT100 emulations "out there")
Dave
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