Hey everyone, No - I won't ask if this is on topic or not :) I'm currently reparing an ALPS plotter ( a Tandy "ce 150" equivalent ) and it's not the first time I face the same problem ; how to replace NiCD batteries. In the past what I did is actually order new NiCd ( you can still find them here in Europe, well actually out of europe but in eastern countries close to europe ) However they are at best NOS nowadays, that does "work" enough for moderate use (I've done that on vintage laptops) This time I'd like to go a bit beyond that and replace the NiCd with modern NiMH (the plotter coils and motors will benefit the extra power) However the trickle chagre of NiCd applied to NiMH will either kill my batteries or kill me in a house fire. I see small $1 NiMH 5S charging boards on Aliexpress, I thought I might use that, try to shove it it the CE150 (or other devcies with the same problem) TL-DR : Before I re invent the wheel here ; Has anyone developed a proper way to replace NiCd with N
iMH in vintage (mostly portable) equipment ? And I mean not simply swapping the batteries, I don't want that, I want a proper charge process.
I remember seeing full page CompuFest ads in the Toronto Star back around 1996-1997. CompuFest was one of the highlights of the year for me and I tried to go every year with friends. Has anyone ever seen one of those old ads online anywhere? Or maybe you have a newspaper or magazine with the ad that I might be able to buy from you?
I have a Silent 700 terminal that only needs a printhead (several
missing pixels on mine) and three keyswitches (I have the keytops so it
doesn't matter which ones).
My other 700 is fully functional and it'd be nice to finish fixing the
other one too! Can anyone help?
Does anyone have a November 1983 issue of PC Magazine?
I did find one on eBay, but it apparently got lost in transit during recent
That issue has been digitally archived
But I was hoping to come across a physical copy.
Anyone partimg with some dang-old thing? It has to work. I'm leaning towards a mono screen. I'm leaning against Zeniths, got 2 Minisports. But anything is possible.
IBM produced a Kanji subbish laptop some years ago. I want to say it had a 286. Anyone know?
Thank you Martin and Fritz for figuring out the DLV11 wiring colours, that's exactly what I needed and I appreciate it very much!
Also there is a lot that I hadn't looked at before in those links, much appreciated. Certainly hadn't considered the wire gauge size too critically
but I'll use what I've got for starters. Chasing up the BC0n cable details led me to Malcolm/Avitech's BC01 cable page, which also helps.
I hope to power it up before Christmas, fingers crossed the M7270 and M8044 boards work. I have yet to check the jumpers on these.
I can relate to the locomotive paint story in a way. I have an old WWII jeep, and rivet counters obsess over the _exact_ shade of WWII Olive
Drab paint. This is exacerbated by most WWII film being black and white, and period colour film may not be regarded as perfect (although
George Stevens' WWII footage on Kodachrome might come close) so finding good unfaded/undamaged paint examples isn't always easy.
Now I had someone tell me they really thought my jeep was a great match to "real" OD, to which I replied that I had actually painted it in Khaki,
which is closer to a brown than a green. Being a completely flat paint, when it's wet it temporarily changes appearance to gloss dark green.
So I just say to people not to worry too much and the OD paint they use is bound to match exactly to at least one of the ~650,000 jeeps produced.
Thanks cctalk list, wishing you all ice-cold Chrissie beers and barbie (Oz BBQ) for the season,
I must have asked numerous times on numerous forums how this is done. Did you ever take a close look at the paint on a 5150 or 5170 (or hell even any IBM monitors that are age appropriate, but those aren't metal). Did you notive the wormy, orange pealy finish. I don't think anyone has seriously attempted to explain how to accomplish that. It's not simply a sligjtly gritty texture as in the case of modern atx cases, that can be done with a spray can, sort of.
Do they simply cause the spray gun to spit on the final coat, perhaps while the previous coat is still tacky?
Merry Christmas, everybody,
I am trying to do the above. ZRQC comes up and says four drives of
Has anybody done this? I figure there must be a configuration that
needs to be done, but found nothing in the documentation to do it.
Nigel Johnson, MSc., MIEEE, MCSE VE3ID/G4AJQ/VA3MCU
Amateur Radio, the origin of the open-source concept!
After all is said and done, my observations since the time this
listserver was up in Washington is that anything OT has a very short
"shelf life." That would suggest most people here have a working brain
and thus, like the definition of pornography, they know OT when they see it.
A long way of saying OT or not is being well served by the choice of
most people here on what they post... with the exception of the waaay
too long discussion, Re: what is on topic?, currently taking place.
Sorry this post isn't about whether something is regarded as classic or not.
I am almost done putting together a little 4-card Qbus machine using a H9281-BA card frame. Eschewing a piece of plywood, the frame, power supply, fans,
Heeltoe POR board are all mounted on a clear acrylic A4-sized office 'In Tray' I picked up at a recycling centre. Hence I've named it PERSPEX-11 :)
For a DLV11 EIA serial connection, I am about to wire up a fly lead cable to go from an M7940 SLU (no dash version) 40-pin header to a DB25P.
After finding the pinout on page 178 in the 1980 Interfaces Handbook, on header J1 I know only need the usual basic RS232 setup:
J - Received Data
F - Transmitted Data
B - Signal Ground
M to E loopback
I have a blank 40-pin header shell and a pile of DuPont leads of all colours ready to slot into their respective locations in the header. I could use
any colours but I'd really like to use the original colours for the above wires.
So, the only wire colour reference in the handbook is for a J1 and J2 header DRV11 pinout on page 275. Pin B is Black, and Transmit is Red but Pin J
Receive is marked as Orange/Ground, for that device. Also M and E don't have their colours specified for the loopback wire.
I've also looked at the Gunkies 'DEC asynchronous serial line pinout' page which has the pinout but it doesn't mention the original wire colours sadly.
Could someone point me to what colours the M7940 cable should be?
Thanks for any help,