Repairing A4000 leaky NiCd damage?
Alexandre Souza
alexandre.tabajara at gmail.com
Fri Jan 2 04:39:42 CST 2015
I've repaired many...I usually take off all the components of the affected
area, wash it with vinegar (!) to neutralize the electrolyte, wash again
with alchool or MEK (Metil-Etil-Ketone, cancerous and very dangerous
solvent) and rebuild the traces with very thin (awg 30) wire-wrap wire. It
always works (for me) :)
I've spent someday 6 hours to recover a board. In Brazil it is worth it!
good luck!
On Fri, Jan 2, 2015 at 7:36 AM, Peter Corlett <abuse at cabal.org.uk> wrote:
> On Fri, Jan 02, 2015 at 01:23:14AM -0500, Ethan Dicks wrote:
> [...]
>
> You didn't say what kind of A4000, but I'm assuming you are referring to
> the
> Amiga, as this is a known problem.
>
> > I know the general process, but I'm curious if anyone has done this
> > specifically to an A4000 board and has any tips. As I said, I'm probably
> > going to have to pull the DIMM socket to get to all the damage.
>
> I've never had much luck with this kind of repair, but the A4000 repair
> always
> sounded particularly difficult and liable to fail. Still, if you've got
> the
> right tools and are patient and careful, you won't be worse off than if you
> didn't bother at all.
>
> > Barring success from running a dozen or so repair wires, would anyone
> happen
> > to have a lead on an A4000 motherboard? Everything else in the machine
> > should be good, the Daughter Card, the CPU card, etc...
>
> I've got a surplus spare from a part-stripped carcass I bought back in
> 2001 to
> try and clear a fault in my own A4000. However, a motherboard swap failed
> to
> clear the fault I had. What this would imply is that both boards are OK
> since
> the failure was sufficiently bizarre that it was unlikely that both would
> fail
> identically, but since I've not conclusively seen either of them work for
> nearly two decades, I wouldn't like to offer any sort of guarantee.
>
> These boards also turn up on eBay in the USA, which might be a better
> bet. As
> far as I can tell, the same boards were used in both NTSC and PAL machines
> and
> a jumper configures the video standard. (I sometimes re-jumpered mine for
> NTSC
> to reduce display flicker.)
>
>
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