Who's rewired their house for this hobby?

[Holm Tiffe]

tony duell wrote:

> > 
> > > OK. But equally if you have multiple outlets on a circuit (presumably often in
> > > the same room), you can't draw more than 10A total. Some of my classic
> > > computers would not like that!
> > 
> > Yes, but this is your problem than.
> > This wiring is to be meant for an average living room, not for an computer
> > room with big computers.
> > If you ant to do this, simply install 3 phase CEE Outlets.
> 
> Are those the ones that we used to call 'BS4343'? Red for 415V, blue for 230V, yellow for 
> 110V, used for single and 3 phase over here ? Not common domestically in the UK, but 
> AFAIK they are permitted, and do turn up occasionally. 

Yes, seems to be the same. For 230V they are seldom used, you see them on
camping places mostly. But hey are common for 3phase power now, at least
for 3x16 and 3x32A. Have seen some yellow ones in a box in the workshop of
an electrican some years before, but never again.

> 
> Presumably the German regulations would permit several 16A outlets in the same room, each
> proteced with its own 16A breaker.

Yes. There is no problem with that.
> 
> > Thats eaxcatly how this is designed. The minimal Gauge for 230V wires is
> > 0,5mm^2.
> 
> Which to me is a 3A cable and I'd protect it with a 3A cartridge fuse in the plug :-)

Yes, steady current. But it can short 16A secured circuits w/o to
vaporize...

> 
> I believe the is a country (probably one that was under British rule at one time) that uses BS1363
> sockets (our 13A ones with) unfused plugs on a 15A radial circuit. No real problem, the socket will
> carry 15A if properly made, but if the plugs/cables end up in the UK, they can be dangerous for the
> obvious reason.

Yes, that's pretty clear.
I've got some chinese "cold device cables" (translation from german
decription that's common here) with 16A Plugs and the typical in computer
PSU used conncetors at the other end in boxes with new computer PSU's.
The print on the cable stated "16A 3x0.75mm^2". I had all kind of trouble
with that cables, the contact springs wherent really springs, at least not
made from "Federbronce" (how we call that here) and the cables got warm ..
I've cut such a thing in to peaces...exactly 4 thin twisted wires in each
plastic isolated wire and in the plug they where not soldered, only twisted
trough a hole in the pin from the plug..cheap and exremely dangerous...

I've put all that cables into the dumpster container from an recycler and
pulled out old white colored cables from it. People there where courious
what I'm doing there, dropping new cables to get old ones?

> 
> I also dislike -- a lot - the unfused wall wart PSUs/chargers we get in the UK. They plug directly into the 
> 13A socket outlet, and thus the only protective devices is the 32A (or 30A) breaker/fuse in the consumer
> unit. I normally run them from a fused multi-socket block on my bench, at least then there is some smaller
> fuse im the circuit.

Since the primitive transformer type wall warts are forbidden for
efficiency purposes now, they have switch mode PSUs this days and
they contain fuses or fuse resistores now.
I don't like switchmode PSUs for everything (because of the radiations) and
cheap chinese things aren't really loocking secure from the inside, but I
really hate that thermo fused primitive wall warts where the transformer
cores are got saturated w/o any load at the secondary, overheated this way
and shoot their thermo fuses..

> 
> > > Mind you the old wiring regulations, at least in the UK, make horrifying reading. At
> > > one time it was required to put a fuse in both the live and neutral wires (and if the
> > > latter failed the whole circuit was live). Now of course you put a fuse in the live only.
> > 
> > :-O
> 
> Indeed. Note that its not that you _may_ put a fuse in both wires, it that's you _must_. Thank
> $deity that rule got removed...
> 
> -tony


Thanks god...

Regards,

Holm
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